Passion Points: Escape

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The Greeks call it lykofos —“wolf light,” the Mediterranean dusk that casts an eerie violet glow over the stone cityscape of Nafplion.
The city’s nightly transformation into a maze of hauntingly lit fortresses is especially dramatic viewed from the Amphitryon Hotel. Whether you’re standing on the deck of a penthouse suite or on the terrace of the sexy white-on-white Veranda bar, the prospect is essentially the same: the Old City’s cobbled streets and buildings, dating from the period of Venetian occupation, the distant lights of Argos, and Bourtzi, a lone citadel floating in the indigo waters of the Argolic Gulf. Hanging just above the hotel is Akronafplia, the ancient acropolis on which is perched a Byzantine castle.
In the 1960s, the Greek government picked this choice spot to build one of the hotels it intended to be the crème de la crème of the nation’s tourist industry. Operating until recently under the name Xenia, these properties were situated within historical monuments, culturally rich sites, areas with iconic views or—as in the case of Amphitryon—all of the above.
The Nafplion Xenia...
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