Passion Points: Escape

photo by Graciela Cattarossi
photo by Graciela Cattarossi

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Zurich's Widder Lives Up To Its Hype

There are some hotels that deliver such a sense of place that even less than twenty-four hours in a city can feel like a concentrated dose of escape. I recently flew through Zurich on my way back to New York and tried a hotel that I had heard raves about from friends and Indagare members—the Widder.

Located in the heart of the Augustiner, the medieval quarter of the Old Town, the Widder is a collection of nine historic townhouses that have been transformed into one of the best boutique hotels in Europe. The five-star property manages to mix old and new, art and comfort and service and intimacy—no small feat. It took more than four years and evident feats of engineering to transform the nine houses into an elegant puzzle of rooms. As soon as you enter the lobby, you can see the elaborate architectural finesse that went into combining spaces. Giant glass windows reveal an interior courtyard, where one stone building dates from 1200. To reach the guest rooms, you pass through corridors where the different colored walls delineate the various buildings that have been joined. Wooden window frames remain, though sealed, to retain exterior facades that are now part of the interiors. Sleek, all-glass elevator cabins whir up and down with a wall of windows facing the garden on one side and an exposed medieval wall of piled stones on the other. The Widder Bar, a popular watering hole, contains wooden beams dating back to 1291 and tufted red leather booths An incredible collection of modern art is displayed throughout the hotel, which may be one reason that collectors on their way to Art Basel tend to hole up here. Among the artists exhibited are Andy Warhol, Alberto Giacometti, Serge Poliakoff, Adolf Loos, Jean Arp and Robert Rauschenberg. The preponderance of ram images (a silkscreen by Warhol and a six-foot tall wooden Picassoesque sculpture among them) pays tribute to one of the building’s past as the Guild of the Ram, as the society of local butchers’ was named.

Everyone of the forty-two guest rooms and nine suites is different. Some feature 16th century frescoes and Mies van der Rohe furniture; others blend Eames chairs and beamed ceilings; the penthouse has a sleek terrace with views of church spires and its own original Robert Rauschenberg. Mine felt like a modernist’s attic apartment with steel and glass tables and lamps accenting Biedermeier pieces; a Baroque console fit for an Italian church hid the minibar.

Thoughtful technological details have been incorporated, such as both portable and landline phones (we all have preferences) and broadband connections by the desks. (Kudos for the management recognizing that Wifi can be slow.) Bathrooms have gorgeous but not predictable marble floors. Mine had black squares framed with small interchanging mosaics of blue and white. Even the amenities included extra touches such as talcum powder to complement the body lotion.

Because all the details are genuine, artistic and at home, the mingling of old and new feels considered not contrived—just like the surrounding area. The streets ringing the hotel (Rennweg, Augustiner Gasse, Widder and Kuttel Gasse) feature centuries old gabled houses with painted facades, wooden shutters and wrought-iron detailing that now contain stylish shops and trendy eateries. (For favorites see Zurich restaurants and shops).

Many in Zurich consider the Widder the hotel of choice for art collectors and bankers as retreat because so many UBS bankers make it a home away from home. But I would put it in an elite category: one of those rare hotels that can deliver an instant fix on a place. The kind that is perfect for those who don’t have much time but want to be quickly immersed in the heart and soul of a special city.

Who it’s right for: Art and style lovers and 21st century bankers and people who prefer sophisticated elegance to formality. For a grand, Old World palace type hotel, the Baur au Lac is a better choice.

Who it’s wrong for: As there are lots of stairways linking the houses, it is important that anyone who has a tough time with steps should specify that at the time of reservation. Some rooms can be accessed without any steps, but you would want to be sure to book one of them specifically.

Read A Letter From Zurich: Follow the Google Guys by our founder on why it deserves its top ranking for highest quality of life.

Read more suggestions on Zurich Highlights.

Read our insider’s guide to St. Moritz.

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November 24, 2008 at 10:40 PM

Under the Volcano: Hacienda San Antonio

A.M., Paradise Valley, AZ

Where I went: Hacienda San Antonio, Colima, Mexico.

Why I went: For a friends birthday.

Who was on the trip: My husband and myself and another couple.

When: May 2008.

Who organized it: I did.

Where we stayed: Hacienda San Antonio.

Who it’s right for: It’s just so right, for anyone and everyone. Intensely romantic and atmospheric for couples; children would love the hacienda and all it has to offer. It is almost like a castle in Mexico where their imagination can run wild. The volcano is amazing and becomes a “true north” while visiting.

What I’d go back for: Lunch in a grove over-looking a lagoon after a horseback ride. There was a beautiful picnic set up and a waiter waiting with cold towels and wine when we arrived. Waking every morning and getting up to see what is going on with “el volcan.”

What I wish I knew in advance: That it is possible to have too much Rosé at lunch! That we should have stayed a week.

What to skip: Absolutely nothing.

What not to miss: The horseback ride and lunch following.

What we loved: The whole trip plays back in my mind like some sort highlight reel. We loved having dinner in a different location every night. The food was amazing. We loved the graciousness of the people who staffed the hotel. We loved feeling like pampered guests of Sir James Goldsmith—totally an experience from another area. Best of all is Viviana Dean, who manages the property with such grace and attention to detail that you will never want to leave.

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November 10, 2008 at 10:41 AM

An African Honeymoon

Postcard from Susan Kittenplan

Susan Kittenplan and her husband, Scott, honeymooned in Africa. Here are highlights of their journey.

North Island, Seychelles

This resort didn’t just meet our expectations; it surpassed them by far—so tranquil and romantic. This island, a former coconut plantation, has been restored beautifully, and has reintroduced rare, indigenous birds, plants and animals (at least fifty enormous tortoises roam the property) The eleven villas are gorgeous and huge, with a plunge pool, a bathtub almost as big, a private valet, all only steps from the beach. The spa treatments are some of the best ever, and the view from the spa rooms is stunning. There is a beach on the other side of the island where you can have drinks at sunset as well as a private brai (barbeque). Privacy is a priority here; you can pull a rope across your villa entrance, or at other parts of the island, and no one will disturb you. Starting in May 2009, the resort will begin a renovation of its villas (not sure why, since they are already beautiful and spacious), and will reopen in October 2009 with even more amenities, including a private spa attendant for each residence. On-demand massages and facials sound really great. Contact: www.north-island.com.

Boulders Lodge at Singita Sabi Sand, South Africa

You’ve probably read a lot about the Singita safari properties in Africa, and all the hype is true—great food, attentive staff, gorgeous setting, terrific wine cellar, etc. If the “Big Five” is your thing, this is an excellent place to visit—we saw all of them almost every time we went out. However, Sabi Sand has much more to see (beautiful flora and fauna; breathtaking star-gazing). Because of its stellar reputation, you may see more Americans than at some of the other camps in southern Africa (we had at least four other couples from New York), but everyone was very friendly. Some advice: Get a private Land Rover, even if only for one outing; you will be able to get to animal sightings quicker as well as be able to tailor the drive to what interests you the most. See if you can request Alan Yeowart to be your guide (although all the guides are excellent, he is the head guide and runs the guide training for all of Singita). Alan is very knowledgeable, is a wildlife photographer who shares his photos with you, and so fun to be with; we really can’t say enough about him. Note: you can also hire him and certain other guides to travel with you to other Singita camps, which makes for better continuity and comfort. If you like wine, the wine cellar here is outstanding. Arrange a private wine-tasting dinner in the cellar with the excellent and entertaining sommelier. Contact: www.singita.com.

Wolwedans, Namibia

Namibia is a very special place to visit, with some of the most cosmic, spectacular landscapes in the world, and Wolwedans (yes, one of Brad and Angelina’s favored spots) is a great camp to have the Namibian experience. There aren’t a lot of animals, but it doesn’t matter, as the terrain and sunrises/sunsets are riveting. The lodge draws a very interesting mix of people from around the world (although you don’t have to see any of them if you don’t want to.) The luxury comes from the service by the young, enthusiastic staff as well as the delicious food and wines; the rooms are very attractive and comfortable (beds have great sheets and duvets, plus hot-water bottles tucked into bed for you), but not over-the-top. If you don’t mind flying in a small plane, definitely take the scenic two-and-a-half trip from the Windhoek airport down the breathtaking Skeleton Coast. In fact, the air is the best way to see the famous Soussevei sand dunes—don’t take the three hour drive to the dunes, especially in winter (it can be a cold, difficult journey). Wolewedans has one of the best gift shops we have ever seen. The floor is the red sand of the Namibian desert and the merchandise (fleeces, t-shirts, Namibian art) is well-worth bringing back home. Many of the cooks at the lodge comes from NICE, the Namibian Institute of Culinary Education, owned by the same family that owns the camp, and we had a chef who took great care of us and taught us how to say “I Love You” in his native Nama “click” language. Contact: www.wolwedans-namibia.com.

Editor’s Note: Read more suggestions on how to plan a honeymoon in Africa. Read a member’s opinion on Singita Grumeti versus Singita Boulders.

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