Paris: Where to Eat: Classics: Aux Lyonnais

Aux Lyonnais

Alain Ducasse took over this century-old Art Nouveau bistro near the old Bourse (stock market) a few years ago and shrewdly updated the menu, which runs to modernized versions of traditional Lyonnaise dishes. Try the brochet aux écrevisses (airy pike perch dumplings in crayfish sauce), frogs’ legs and Grand Marnier soufflé. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday. Métro: Bourse or Richelieu-Drouot.

— Sandy Flick 05/16/2007