South Africa: Cape Town: Where to Eat: Big Night Out: La Colombe

La Colombe

I didn’t eat at La Colombe on my most recent trip to Cape Town, but this has been the city’s finest French restaurant for a long time. Its chef, the marvelously named Franck Dangereux, recently left to open his own business in out-of-the-way Noordhoek, so it remains to be seen if his successor can keep up the pristine freshness and delicacy of the food, with its Provençal accents. The wine-estate setting is beautiful, and the tables overlook a swimming pool; go there for a special lunch.

EDITOR’S NOTE: On my recent trip to Cape Town, in April 2009, I had an incredible lunch at La Colombe, a special place for a meal on one of the area’s oldest wine estates, Constantia Uitsig. There are three restaurants on the estate, as well as a working farm, a hotel and a spa, but the one to book is La Colombe.

Chef Dale Roberts, who took over from Franck Dangereux in 2006, has established himself as one of the region’s finest culinary craftsmen. Menus change often and are written on a chalkboard that is brought over to the tables (during the summer, ask to be seated on the romantic outdoor terrace). Highlights during my meal included warm beetroot tartare, Asian-style kudu tartare and a decadent entree of local springbok, a lean meat that was served with a topping of foie gras. As in most Cape Town restaurants, the options for vegetarians are limited, but one fellow diner had rave reviews of her vegetable-topped summer risotto.

After lunch, take a walk down to the large rugby field, with sweeping views of Table Mountain. Reservations are a must. Open daily for lunch and dinner. S.G.