France: Belle-Île: Where to Eat: Overview

Here’s what I’d suggest for dining on Belle-Île.

IN SAUZON

There are a handful places in Sauzon. Café de la Cale (Quai Guerveur; 33-2-97-31-65-74) is perfect for lunch. Sit outside on the modern terrace to appreciate the view of the boast or inside for a cozy atmosphere.

At Roz Avel (33-2-97-31-61-48), a room lined in dark wood, Breton antiques and belongings of the owner’s grandmother set the tone. I tried a memorable dish of local lamb here.

And at Le Contre Quai (33-2-97-31-60-60), the chef still swears by his mother’s salad-dressing recipe (the secret is the salt). It’s the island’s most inventive (successfully inventive!) restaurant. The mussels with a touch of coconut milk and fresh ginger were divine.

IN LE PALAIS

I actually went twice to the pub-like Le Goeland (33-2-97-31-81-26), right on the port, because of the informal, almost fraternal atmosphere. You talk with your neighbor, the chef comes out to grill the fish in the fireplace, and the bread itself is worth the detour.

FURTHER AFIELD

There is an airy garden in the Auberge Chouk’Aze (33-2-97-31-79-69), in Locmaria, with the terrace painted in bright reds and yellows opening onto a garden. The ambience is homey rather than sophisticated.