Rome: Where to Eat: Relaxed but Refined: Bleve

Bleve

Enotecas, or wine bars, have made a big splash in Rome over the past decade. Romans come here for the private-club atmosphere and the extraordinary wines accompanied by such delicacies as smoked turkey wrapped around truffle-infused ricotta. You may be awed by the dining room, but ask to go downstairs to view the cellars, where the massive stone walls date from the first century.