Maldives: Where to Stay: Most Indulgent: Soneva Gili & Spa

Soneva Gili & Spa

The sexy younger sister of Soneva Fushi opened in 2001 and looks more like your fantasy of a glamorous beach getaway, with its dramatic over-the-water bungalows, large pool and palm-studded coastline (most of the trees were planted by the owners, Sonu and Eva Shivdasani, who found the island in an abysmal state when they took over). All forty-four villas are built over the shallow lagoon—seven are freestanding and reached only by boat—using the same sustainable materials as those on Fushi.

Details like large sun decks, glass panels in the living room floor and glass-encased showers make the property appear a bit more polished. The island itself is small, but the stylish visitors (mostly couples) tend to stay put in their ultra-comfortable villas, except for the occasional visit to the excellent Six Senses Spa. If you plan to try both resorts, start at Fushi and end up at Gili, which may not have the romantic jungle setting but is all about indulging in sun, sand and gorgeous turquoise water. During the high season, villas begin at $1,195.

Who should go: Couples who want to relax, get away from it all and spend a lot of quality time with each other.

Who should not go: Active types who can’t fathom the idea of whiling the day away on a chaise longue.

Rooms to get: For the ultimate privacy, book one of the sumptuous Crusoe Residences, freestanding villas in the middle of the lagoon. Be aware, however, that you’ll have to navigate a motor dinghy to and from the main island every time you want to leave your abode (you can also call your personal villa butler to come pick you up).

For easier island access, I preferred the Deluxe Residences, which are equally spacious but attached to the end of jetties. For those who crave total solitude, there’s the 15,000-square-foot Private Reserve, which is made up of six interconnected houses.

What to do: There’s scuba diving and snorkeling, but the reefs are not as good as those around Fushi. And really the point of staying here is to do as little as possible other than swim, read and stargaze from the daybeds on the villas’ upper-floor terraces.

Indagare tip: Book the Planet Earth Core treatment at the Six Senses Spa, which is built over the lagoon and has glass panels in the floor. Planet Core is tailored to specific needs (jet lag, energy loss, sleep deprivation), lasts two and a half hours and includes mineral-rich clay wraps and a long massage with essential oils.

What to bring: Gili might be a touch more dressy than Fushi at dinnertime, but here, too, no shoes are optional.

Getting there: From Malé, Gili is a twenty-minute transfer by speedboat.

— Simone Girner 07/02/2007