Nantucket: Where to Stay: Hideaways: Wauwinet

Wauwinet

“An Inn by the Sea” is the simple moniker of this waterfront property—the island’s only Relais & Châteaux—located on Nantucket’s northern sliver of sand, which framed by the Atlantic Ocean and Nantucket Bay. And indeed, there’s something refreshingly uncomplicated about this gray-shingled hotel, where check-in feels like arriving in the serenity and comfort of a sophisticated friend’s beach house. The wonderful reception staff greets repeat guests by name, inquires about the kids and recent graduations, and knows which rooms and cocktails are preferred.

No two of the thirty-two rooms are alike, save for such luxe details as ultra-opulent elevated beds, Pratesi linens, Caudalíe bath products, flat-screen TVs and, in most, views of the sea. I loved No. 301, a cheerful room with a sloping ceiling and gorgeous ocean vistas. The common spaces feel homey thanks to such touches as bowls of fruit, and the wraparound porch inspires thoughts of finally starting—and finishing—all those novels that have been piling up on your bedside table.

The hotel, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2007, is a distance from Nantucket town (about a half hour with the complimentary shuttle service), so if you’re visiting for the first time or are an avid shopper or social butterfly, you might consider booking at the White Elephant, the Wauwinet’s sister property. Active outdoorsy types, however, will be happy here, since Ali Labelle, the concierge, can arrange everything from kayaking and sailing excursions to golf and surf lessons. If you do end up on a shopping spree in town, take advantage of the Wauwinet’s “sherpa” service, where the hotel arranges to pick up your purchases.

Once I was sitting in a lounge chair on the manicured lawn that spills down to one of the Wauwinet’s private beaches, it was difficult to remember why I wanted to join the crowds in Town in the first place. It helps that the top-rated restaurants, Topper’s is on site. And with the new Spa by the Sea, housed in a freestanding cottage and comprising four tranquil treatment rooms, there will be one less reason to leave the Inn by the Sea. Rooms from $500.

TIP: According to the lovely general manager Bettina Landt, many potential first-time visitors assume that during high season the Wauwinet is booked solid when, in fact, there are often rooms available. She suggests calling to check and adds that the more flexible you are with dates, the more likely that they will be able to accommodate you.

— Simone Girner 07/10/2007