Las Vegas: Where to Stay: Most Indulgent: Bellagio

Bellagio

If there’s a hotel in Vegas to rival the Wynn, this is it. And no wonder—Steve Wynn created it (he sold it in 2000 to MGM/Mirage properties). Its fountains out front, which dance to the music of Andrea Bocelli, Frank Sinatra and others, are among the city’s most spectacular sights.

The reception area is remarkable, with a ceiling that blooms glass flowers created by sculptor Dale Chihuly and a 13,573-square-foot indoor conservatory whose botanical display changes with the seasons. The last time I was there, it was a splendor of red dragons and horses, in honor of Chinese New Year. On the third floor of the main tower are nine high-roller villas available for rent ($5,000 to $6,000). Each has a private pool, tight security and a twenty-four-hour butler staff.

Ask for the Chairman or Presidential Suite ($5,000) in the Spa Tower, which opened in December of 2004 with an additional 928 rooms and suites, bringing the total room count to 3,933. The Chairman and Presidential suites, the only ones on the top floor, come with special touches, such as full dining rooms, solariums, mother-of-pearl-inlaid floors and soaking tubs that overlook the city. The Jean Philippe Patisserie in the Spa Tower has the world’s tallest and largest-volume chocolate fountain in the world. At least stand at the window and drool as two tons of brown gold circulate through the sculptured device. Rooms from $199.

WHAT’S NEW: The Spa Bellagio is an enormous, and lovely, 55,000-square-foot Zen-influenced structure with fifty-six treatment rooms, three Vichy rooms—even a Watsu room. The Salon Bellagio has eighteen stylist stations and a barber shop.

ON THE HORIZON: All the suites in the main tower are undergoing a rolling renovation slated to begin in late 2007.