Bora Bora: Where to Stay: Luxury: Le Taha’a

Le Taha’a

Though it takes a little effort to get there, Le Taha’a, a private island just across from Raiatea and directly east of Bora Bora, is worth the 35-minute boat ride from the latter. Built in 2002, Le Taha’a was named a Relais & Chateaux property at the end of November 2003. As a result of the constant upkeep necessary in the South Pacific climate, the entire property was refurbished in March 2007. Arguably the most Polynesian in appearance of all the resorts I visited, Le Taha’a has forty-eight over-water bungalows, or fales, and ten beach bungalows made of bamboo siding. Interiors are furnished in rosewood carved by artists who managed to make each piece look unique. The pillars holding up the walls are made of stone imported from Moorea. The over-water bungalows have boat-shaped double tubs and wraparound decks with private dining areas. The garden fales are a bit larger, 1,000 square feet, and have private gardens, small plunge pools, outdoor showers and mosquito-netted beds. The resort has been so perfectly laid out for privacy that even when it’s full, you feel you’re alone in the world. The magnificent gardens include more than 12,000 species of local plants and flowers.

Though the lagoon is outrageously gorgeous throughout this entire region, the one surrounding Le Taha’a is even more so because its coral gardens are largely untouched by anchors, as ships aren’t allowed to visit the private island. Encircling the whole resort is the longest uninterrupted stretch of white sand in all French Polynesia. The Manea Spa is small but has a full range of services. The treatment rooms are open air, and the therapists are locals. There is also a small fitness center that opened in May 2007. Tennis players will appreciate the only court I saw during my entire stay in the islands.

Like all Relais & Chateaux properties, this one has a fine dining room. The gourmet Ohiri is a lovely cathedral-like structure with only nine tables. Guests choose among a fusion of French and Polynesian dishes from a tasting menu or à la carte. The main restaurant, Vanille, is all open-air splendor, with a moderately gourmet menu that includes everything from the catch of the day to pasta. As the name suggests, vanilla is used in many of the dishes. Though as many as 180 staff members are on hand during high season, the resort cannot accommodate 24-hour room service. This apparently caused some problems when Tom Cruise came to visit and had to eat every four hours to bulk up for a film. Still, the staff will at least attempt to fulfill every request, and the main concierge, who has been with the resort since it opened, is knowledgeable and accomplished. Rooms from $1,200.

Rooms to Get: Most in demand are eight romantic over-water units (from $2,500 a night) with the best views of Bora Bora sunsets. There are also two royal beach villas, which are essentially two beach villas linked together. Each does have a large living room and can accommodate three couples.