Chicago: Where to Eat: Big Night Out: Charlie Trotter’s

Charlie Trotter’s

It has racked up ten James Beard awards and made its namesake chef a worldwide celebrity, and although it’s been around for twenty years, Charlie Trotter’s is still a wonderful culinary experience. Consisting of three rooms (each with ten tables) in a brownstone, the restaurant has a sedate, dignified atmosphere. The decor may be a bit tired, but the cuisine shines, with dishes that are impeccably prepared and surprisingly light. Diners have a choice of two set menus that change daily, highlight the finest market ingredients and run about eight or nine courses. Particularly delightful is the Vegetarian Menu ($130), which at a recent meal started with a refreshing sweet ice made from Thai basil. The Grand Degustation ($155) menu may feature, for example, roasted Muscovy duck with bitter melon and Szechuan-infused duck consommé. Serious foodies reserve three to four months in advance to snag the six-top in the kitchen, where a member of the culinary team serves and explains each of the fifteen or so impromptu courses. The spot is crowded and noisy but at the center of the action. Seatings are at 6 and 9 p.m.; reserve well in advance and allow two to three hours. Usually closed Monday.