Chicago: Where to Eat: Relaxed but Refined: Blackbird

Blackbird

Paul Kahan, who owns Blackbird and Avec, is one of Chicago’s most influential restaurateurs, and foodies and fellow chefs tend to speak of him in reverential terms. One bite at Blackbird and you’ll know why. Set in a spare, loft-like space in the West Loop, the restaurant has a simple but striking aesthetic: black-and-white decor, long gray banquettes, a big open kitchen, a slightly industrial vibe and a whole wall of windows overlooking the street. Even at noon it’s packed with diners feasting on the ambrosial bouillabaisse, made with a garlicky basil-saffron broth; the seared loin of venison with chiogga beets, cauliflower and almond puree, or the sauteed pike brandade with fennel, amaranth, and candied cocoa nibs. Expect to be dazzled by such innovative concoctions as bacon ice cream—sweet, salty, smoky and simply delectable. And for dessert, don’t miss the light-as-a-feather mission-fig beignets with oranges and butterscotch. Reserve well in advance. Closed Sunday.