Bahia: Where to Stay: Hideaways: Villas de Trancoso

Villas de Trancoso

On the dirt road that leads out of the town of Trancoso and toward the beach, you pass many large gates leading to private villa estates. Thankfully, one such property was bought five years ago by American Galen Briggs, who came to Bahia on vacation and decided to make it his home. He has transformed the fifteen-acre parcel into a wonderful, small resort. Five one- and two-bedroom villas are scattered around the property along with a main house containing the dining room, bar and small library. Built out of Brazilian woods, all of the villas feature indigenous details such as quari-quara tree columns, locally woven rugs and regional crafts and all-important air-conditioning, but expect simple and clean not glitzy.

The atmosphere matches the dress code: bare feet and bathing suits. There’s a pool, but the main draw is the gorgeous beach that is reached via a small wooden walkway surrounded by mangroves. You step out from beneath an archway of branches to a gloriously wide and mostly deserted beach, which is set up with an outdoor gym of sorts and beyond that a row of chaises facing the surf. When I stayed last year, even though the hotel was full, only once did we share the beach area with any other guests—probably because one of the main activities is exploring other beaches. The white sand expanse here is lapped by gentle waves, the kind that were ideal for our young kids to practice their body surfing in.

The Crowd: Our fellow guests were attractive couples in their 20s on holiday from City jobs in London and a stylish Paulista with her mother and sisters; she was planning her wedding at the hotel. American guests are rare but Al and Tipper Gore did stay in the new Villa Golf.

Room To Get: The Villa Sky commands the center of the resort and consists of a two-story great room with a bar, a dining and living area and, upstairs, a large bedroom and bathroom. For a family the hotel will set up roll-away beds. The staff is also happy to deliver meals to your room.

Villa To Book: Briggs is an avid golfer and has added a four-bedroom Villa Golf on the 18-hole course Terravista, which is set on dramatic cliffs over the beach about two kilometers from the resort. This is where Al and Tipper Gore hid out.

Activities: Terravista has been ranked the #1 Golf Course in Latin America. Designed by Dan Blankenship, it offers 18 holes on a dramatic clifftop site overlooking the Atlantic.

Rooms from $366 a night, depending on the season. Villas from $664 a night, depending on the season.