Escape: Pulse: Acapulco's Comeback
Acapulco's Comeback
From Wayne Hudson, Mexico March 2008
“Why Go Now: I think the New York Times Travel story (www.nytimes.com) is an extremely accurate portrayal of Acapulco (other than leaving out one of my favorite restaurants, Baikal, and failing to mention that a Banyan Tree hotel is opening in the fall.) In November, I was there for the weekend sampling all the new restaurants, all spectacular, one better than the next. Acapulco is going through a luxury boom, in restaurants, new hotels (about to get both a Banyan Tree and a boutique hotel from the Mexico City Condesa DF people, and Raffles is upgrading the Pierre Marquess), and they are building expensive homes all over the place. It is definitely off the radar to most travelers but is the spot for the Mexico City elite who have made it a boom town. The Saturday night I was at Becca, people were still arriving for dinner at midnight. And Becca is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful restaurants I have ever seen.
What’s New: I used to have a house on a lake and learned to dislike jet skis because of the noise, I am starting to feel the same way about helicopters. I have been staying in La Cima, a community above Las Brisas that has its own heliport. The problem is that Friday afternoons there is a non-stop drone of helicopters landing as the residents arrive for the weekend.
Where to stay: I had thought about writing a postcard on Acapulco on several occasions but didn’t for a reason they address in the article: it’s really a place where you stay in a villa, at the moment there is not a hotel to whole-heartedly recommend, and I realize that not everyone likes the idea of renting a villa when they travel. But if someone likes staying in villas, spectacular restaurants, and upscale nightclubs, then Acapulco is for them.
They have actually done a really nice renovation of the Suites at Las Brisas (Carretera Escénica 5255; (52) 744-469-6900; www.brisas.com.mx). They have kept the spirit of the place but added nice touches like glass ceilings and rain showers in the bathrooms, The suites, especially the Master Suites and the suites with the indoor and outdoor pools are really well done and their beach club is great.
Where To Eat: The joke is that Mexican Food is really hard to come by in the Las Brisas area, not because they are pitching to an American audience but because their main clientele, the Mexico City elite, would rather have Italian and Asian fusion.
Becco al Mare: An exhilarating experience. Dramatic modern space which is open to the views and breezes of Acapulco Bay. Good northern Italian cuisine, good service, great music, young and attractive crowd. Very expensive. (Avenida Escénica 14; 52-744-446-7402; www.beccoalmare.com)
Baikal: Next door to Becco, same view but more low key. Elegant, sophisticated, the soundtrack tends to be samba rather than house. Good food and service, excellent presentation. They begin with the Champagne cart where you can even get Dom by the glass. My favorite dish in Acapulco is at Baikal, sea bass with three chile sauces on a bed of asparagus. (Avenida Escénica 22; 52-744-446-6845; www.baikal.com.mx)
Madeiras: An amazing transformation. It has been around forever, it had been my mother’s favorite restaurant. I grew to hate it as it became dowdy and out of touch. It closed and remodeled and was reborn as a chic modern space with an adventuresome Mexican/Asian Fusion menu. It is a more intimate space than the newer restaurants and as such more romantic. (Carretera Escénica 33 bis, Las Brisas; 52-744-484-4378)
Zibu: A soaring, highly impressive space, the upper level open with flaming torches, the lower level glass enclosed. A Mexican/Thai fusion menu. Very good food, very good service. The only drawback is that it faces Puerto Marques rather than the more dramatic view of Acapulco Bay. (52-744-433-3058; www.zibu.com.mx)
Zuntra: This should be a much talked about restaurant, chic modern space, good views, good service, menu of Asian influenced seafood dishes. Its only problem is that it lives in the shadow of the Zuntra bar, one of the wonders of the world. Even the jaded traveler gasps when they arrive at the Zuntra bar, a rooftop space with sweeping views of one of the most beautiful bays in the world. It’s a lively convivial place with people mingling and casually moving to the great music being played by a DJ. Light meals of sushi and tapas are available. (Carretera Escénica s/n Locales 1 y 2 Marina Brisas; 52-744-446-5601; www.zuntra.com.mx)
Kookaburra: Not my personal favorite, but visitors that I take there just love it. Great views of the bay, good traditional seafood dishes, and good friendly service. What my guests fall for is that the restaurant is completely lit by candlelight, which they find wildly romantic. (Carretera Escénica; 52-744-484-4418)
Late Night: Acapulco gets a rush hour when the sun comes up and people leave the clubs. And the two in clubs, Classico and the very, very chic Baby O are extremely expensive even by New York and London standards.”