Tokyo: Strategies: Lay of the Land

The heart of the city is the Imperial Palace, a moated compound that is mostly off-limits to the general public. From there, Tokyo sprawls out in a rather higgledy-piggedly way, lacking any kind of grid-style city planning. The street-numbering system can make it hard even for postmen to find particular addresses, so it is easy to imagine the problems a casual visitor faces. Make sure addresses are written down in Japanese script and include very particular descriptions of nearby major landmarks.

The main business and shopping district is the famous Ginza, a concentrated series of city blocks to the east of the Imperial Palace, where all visitors will find themselves at some point. Although Ginza itself is walkable, heading to other areas—Roppongi, the nightlife zone, for example—involves a cab ride or a subway journey.

To cut down on time wasted, organize an itinerary in some detail before leaving your hotel; or even go against the independent-traveler grain and book a tour, at least for a half-day, to get a handle on Tokyo’s crazy-paving geography. Staying in a high-up room in one of the city’s better hotels can also help with figuring out what is where.