Green/Eco: People: Nature Conservancy Trips of a Lifetime

Nature Conservancy Trips of a Lifetime

M.A. Sanjayan, one of the Nature Conservancy’s three lead scientists, spends his year leading donor trips and scientific expeditions to many of the world’s last great places. He just finished a shark expedition in Australia, and yesterday he began a two-week camel trek across the Namib Desert to the Skeleton Coast. He and the small group with him will cross the very last “intact” desert (one that remains as pristine as it was 200 years ago) and they will be the last travelers to do so, as the area will soon be encompassed into a new national park, called, “The People’s Park.” Since he expects to have a laptop and a satellite link, we are hoping to receive some short “post cards” and images from the field.

Before Sanjayan left, I met with him in New York and found out about his favorite unspoiled places and how one can join his incredible journeys.

How many countries do you visit a year?

The Nature Conservancy works in about 35 countries around the world—Asia, Latin America, the Pacific, and more recently Africa. This means my frequent flyer points rack up fast—on average I visit over half a dozen countries a year, from as little as three days to month long expeditions. In the last year or two I have visited: Argentina, Australia, Botswana, Canada, Kenya, Namibia, Netherlands, Panama, Sri Lanka, South Africa, Tanzania, United Kingdom, Venezuela, and Zambia.

What were the standouts?

There is no doubt, my favorite place to visit regularly is Namibia. I have been there, perhaps, a dozen times and each time I leave wanting to come back. It is a country easy to navigate on your own—great roads, great people, and outstanding wildlife. You can really explore Namibia well off the beaten path without getting in too much trouble. Of course, the lodges are superb, especially ones run by Wilderness Safari’s but there are other gems too if you are willing to look.

I also think Argentina is a great destination especially for Americans. Friendly people, good value, great wine, mountain biking, fishing etc…

Kenya is always wonderful for wildlife and top-notch service—the Lewa Conservancy, in particular, is a delightful place to stay.

I also found myself having a great time in Australia. Port Douglas in particular is a terrific jumping off point to the Great Barrier Reef—the rainforest (Dain Tree) is right there and in the forest Cassowaries abound. In the oceans, there is no shortage of marine life—shark central. And Port Douglas, especially in the shoulder or off-season has fantastic restaurants—not one bad meal. Check out Salsas for lunch, and morning coffee (flat white) at Java Coffee Shop—famous not just for its coffee but also for hosting President Clinton.

How many donor trips a year do you do and how do you choose the destinations?

I try to keep it to two a year—but anything more and it becomes a chore. They are logistically challenging trips and there is a lot of prep that goes into them—so two, maybe three a year is best. Of course, other scientists at TNC lead their own as well so at any time we have some trip going on somewhere in the world. I pick destinations I know something about but still want to explore. My trips are famous for being off-the-beaten path—I want to give our donors an experience they could not pay otherwise to experience—a bit of a true expedition where we expect challenges and overcoming them is part of the fun. A mix of luxury, roughing it, and outright adventure.

What makes these trips so special?

We get a behind-the-scenes peak at how conservation works, doing something so unusual and unique that there would virtually be no other way of doing it. Meeting on-the-ground conservation professionals who, with little support and under incredibly poor odds, persevere. We always have great local staff or partner organizations whom we work with giving us special access, something that only very local knowledge could provide. On the last trip I did to Namibia, our donors and trustees, got to walk in the shoes of rhino rangers in the Namib desert—not pretending, but actually doing the real thing. We ended up foot-tracking a wild black rhino to within about 75 miles without it ever knowing we were right there, and no one died though a toe nail was lost on the hike. These trips are a chance for our trustees and donors to learn about a landscape that is incredibly fragile and unique and no one ever seems to come back without being moved by what they have seen and learned.

Are there other ways for travelers to join Nature Conservancy trips?

If you are a member of The Nature Conservancy, we have several trips a year that are open to you—our web site, our magazine, and our trips program advertise all of them. Even if you are not a member, trips that are externally advertised, say our partnership trips with A & K are open to all who sign up. Check our web site at www.nature.org.

What are some of your favorite countries to visit and why?

Namibia—It is the second least populated country on earth, with vast spectacular wilderness, all still relatively intact. Whether on a luxury trip with Wilderness Safaris or camping on your own both options are available and easy. Kenya wildlife and birds its still hard to beat Kenya. Sure a lot of people go there but with a little research there are still undiscovered places in Kenya. Lewa Conservancy, the Northern Range Land Trust, and Africa Wildlife Foundation all partner with great community-based conservation projects that combine luxury with adventure.

Argentina people from abroad bother to visit the states outside of Patagonia and, perhaps, the wine country in Mendoza but for getting lost near the Bolivian border and the high Andes, Jujuy province can’t be beat. It has great small B & B’s, world-class hiking, mountain biking and friendly people.

Panama—Want a quick weekend adventure in a tropical country full of wildlife; Panama is hard to beat. No visas, direct flights from New York etc., you can have breakfast in New York and spotting some of the 300 plus birds that regularly call Pipeline Road home, just outside Panama City or getting friendly with a sloth. Tons of wildlife, two oceans, mountains, and great food are some of the reasons that make this place my favorite for a quick trip.

Sri Lanka—For Asian Wildlife, amazing food, ethic diversity, and superb service, Sri Lanka can’t miss. It is, perhaps, the easiest place in the world to see Asian elephants. It is conceivable that just 3 hours after landing in Colombo you could watch a herd of 50 Asian elephants bathe in a river. Leopards, Asiatic sloth bear, spotted deer, and over 400 species of birds are commonly spotted in Sri Lanka. From the hill country at 9,000 feet where the best tea in the world is grown to the pristine coasts of the East and south, Sri Lanka has it all. Of course, one of the challenges with Sri Lanka is that an ethnic civil war has been going on for some time now. But, foreign visitors are never targeted and as long as you avoid crowded places in the city and spend your time in the national parks (Yale, Bundala etc), in the hill country near Kandy, and at beach resorts, you will not have any problems.

What are some of the countries you believe are too often overlooked by travelers?

Sierra Leone—If you truly want an adventure and want to see a small corner of the world few have had the opportunity to see, I would suggest Sierra Leone. During the ’90s it was gripped in a horrific civil war. Today, it’s a peaceful emerging democracy. If you want beaches with not a soul in sight, great food, friendly people and the unusual wildlife West Africa has to offer; go to Sierra Leone. In a decade, it will once again become a mecca for European sun worshippers but right now you will have much of the place to yourself. It will take a little bit doing to get you there, and you have to be prepared for the unexpected but you will see a corner of Africa few have seen. Make a trip out to Tiwai Island—a protected reserve in the middle of the Moa River. There are thirteen species of primates on the island from tiny bush-babies to chimpanzees, red colobus, black and white colobus, as well as the elusive pygmy hippo—an animal I photographed a few years ago—the first photo of the pig-sized forest hippo ever taken in the wild. Also don’t miss the Gola forest in the South East of the country and the Chimpanzee Sanctuary in the capital city Freetown. For birders and beach lovers; adventurers and soul seekers Sierra Leone is the undiscovered gem of West Africa.

Which kind of trips do you suggest for families interested in educating their children about the environment while on vacation?

When traveling with children you have to pace yourself and pace them. You can’t expect their attention span to be the same as yours. Ideally, you can stay in a place that can give you some personal time while allowing for plenty of family time. Short nature walks, safaris specifically designed for kids, and adventure sports the whole family can get involved in are all great ideas. Some companies like CCAfrica and Wilderness Safaris in Africa design specific trips that cater to kids and families without compromising on the quality of the experience. Some kid-friendly countries, include Costa Rica, Panama, Argentina, “South Africa”: /destinations/34/departments, Tanzania, Namibia, Sri Lanka, and, perhaps surprisingly, India and the Middle East. Many cultures are more kid-friendly than Western cultures.

What do you believe are the most essential ingredients for a memorable journey?

A sense of adventure—throw away the guide books and discovery for yourself—at least for a day or two, or even an afternoon.

A sense of humor—you are on vacation, remember! Even if you are stuck in a train station in Calcutta, it’s probably better than being stuck in traffic or in your office—plus you can find great Indian curries in the station.

The company you keep—whom you travel with makes a huge difference to the quality of the experience. I have a couple of close friends I travel with and we always have a grand adventure no matter the location.

Also, even for a short while, try and meet the locals—get out of the resort, take the guide out for lunch at a restaurant his family eats at, visit with a shop keeper. It’s always eye-opening.

A small journal that keeps memories in words not just pictures—(not a diary; that’s too rigid—just jot down places, names, phone numbers, an little details. Years later you will treasure these more than a digital photo)

Your most memorable trip?

That is a very difficult question because nearly all are memorable. Two that come to mind include my recent trip to the Coral Sea, off the coast of Australia. Tagging and diving with Sharks off Osprey Reef (about a day’s sail from Cairns) is pretty hard to beat. In just 8 days we saw eight species of sharks along with manta rays by the dozens. Eye-to-eye Encounters (ask for John Rumney) runs a fantastic whale encounter trip in the Coral Sea. You get really up-close-and-personal with Minke Whales and since only a few permits are issued each year, this is not mass marketed. Spend 5 days on a luxury yacht with John, and 3 days relaxing on Lizard Island and you will see more big marine wildlife than in any other place in the world I know.

Climbing the highest peak in Sierra Leone a few years ago, when I filmed a documentary called “Wild Life in the War Zone” was another unforgettable journey—a country emerging out of civil war was life changing to see up close.

Going up to Kaktovik (Barter Island) to see Polar bears was hard to beat. In September, the Inupiak Eskimos hunt whales and the polar bears come to feed on the left-over blubber. The trip I did last year was recently featured in Vanity Fair (May issue).

A weekend in San Francisco pretty hard to beat too. The city never disappoints. Buy a bottle of bubbly, some good sourdough bread, a bottle of tabasco and a lemon. Head north from the city to play in Point Reyes National Sea Shore (bird watch, hike, find the herd of elk that’s out there) and when you get hungry, pull into Hog Island Oyster company for a couple of dozen kumimoto oysters (they sell them to you straight from the ocean)—head down to the beach and eat them within sight of the surf, with nothing but a squeeze of lemon and a dash of Tabasco. If you are alone, you will wish you had someone with you; if you are with someone, it will make a memorable impression. Come back for a late dinner at A16 on Chestnut or the Blue Lantern on Mission Street.

Where do you want to go next?

The Solomon Islands. I want to climb the highest peak in the South Pacific. Return to Northern Australia (Northern Territory by land and Cape York by sea). And spend a week back-packing in my own back yard in Montana: the Bob Marshall Wilderness (the largest most intact wilderness area in the lower 48). And the last trip is a secret. I will let you know once I have done it.

— Melissa Bradley 04/15/2008