Food/Wine: Pulse: Hungry for Paris

Hungry for Paris

“The fragile golden pastry case was shaped like Venus’s breast but incised with a fine swirling spiral…I cut it open, and inside was an impeccably cooked veal sweatbread wrapped in a mantle of wilted sorrel leaves…” So begins one of the marvelously absorbing reviews (in this case, of Taillevent) in Alexander Lobrano’s new book, Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 102 Best Restaurants. Lobrano, one of Indagare’s favorite food writers, has been eating his way through the French capital since he moved there in 1986 (it helps that he’s Gourmet’s European Correspondent). Arranged by arrondissement, his guide is full of long, thoughtful reviews, lively anecdotes, essential information (métro stop, days open) and plenty of suggested dishes, from the classics to the more adventurous (beef cheeks braised in red wine, carpaccio of calf’s head). There are also general tips on subjects like navigating the wine list and the best time of year to eat chèvre (the spring). But it’s the writing—warm, funny, full of passion and knowledge—that will leave you hungry for more. Some of Lobrano’s picks:

Chez Georges: “Unfailingly correct, politely coquettish, and impeccably Parisian.” (1 rue du Mail, 2nd; 33-01-42-60-07-11)

Au Bascou: “The best outpost of Basque country cooking in Paris and a great choice for a long, relaxed lunch.” (38 rue Réamur, 3rd; 33-01-42-72-69-25)

Mon Veil Ami: “Chef Frédéric Crochet brilliantly reinvents Alsatian home cooking and other French regional dishes for the twenty-first century.” (69 rue Saint-Louis-en-L’Ile, 4th; 33-01-40-46-01-35)

Auguste: “Gaël Orieux is one of the most exciting young talents in Paris.” (54 rue de Bourgogne, 7th; 33-01-45-51-61-09)

Le Gorille Blanc: “Hidden away in one of the most fashionable little streets on the Left Bank, this bistro is a charmer with a chic clientele of locals and a few smart tourists.” (11 bis rue Chomel, 7th; 33-01-45-49-04-54))

Le Pur’Grill: “Subtle, sexy, sophisticated cooking.” (Park Hyatt Vendôme Hôtel, 5 rue de la Paix, 2nd; 33-01-58-71-60)

Read our Paris destination report.