Sydney: Where to Eat: Global Cuisine: Longrain

Longrain

Great Thai food has long been a cornerstone of the Sydney dining experience, but Longrain upped the ante when it opened in a dilapidated part of Surry Hills a few years ago, and it’s still going strong. Long communal tables, dark-wood paneling and black-clad staff set the scene, but the dishes are the real stars, from the zesty betel-leaf appetizers with smoked trout and garlic galangal to the sublime salt-and-pepper tofu. Tip: Reservations are only taken for lunch; dinner draws long lines, so it’s best to arrive early if you don’t want to stand for too long.