Sydney: Where to Eat: Global Cuisine: Billy Kwong

Billy Kwong

You can tell you’re near this restaurant by the line of people snaked around the block. Chef Kylie Kwong—she has her own cooking show and has written multiple cookbooks—turns out innovative versions of her family’s traditional Chinese recipes at this small and spare neighborhood spot in Surry Hills. The late worldly gourmand, R.W. Apple, Jr. of the New York Times, called it his “favorite neighborhood restaurant,” even though it was close to 10,000 miles away from where he lived, so fond he was of her steamed prawn wontons and chive crepes. Her crispy skin duck with blood-orange sauce is the stuff of legend.