Giving Back: Pulse: Discovering the Real Chiang Mai: Special Finds

Discovering the Real Chiang Mai: Special Finds

From Tiffany Schauer, July 5, 2008

I wanted to list a few of my favorites in Chiang Mai. These are people and places that I believe reflect the heart and love of the northern Thai culture and hospitality. The willingness of the Thai people to embrace travelers is worldly unique. My experience has been one of “coming home.” The loneliness of traveling solo was repeatedly thwarted by one experience after another of being enveloped into this culture’s day-to-day life, undeniable humanity and deep generosity.

Cooking School with GayRay.

GayRay is a true Thai gem to behold in Chiang Mai. She recently opened Asia Scenic Thai Cooking, a cooking school, in the middle of Chiang Mai. (www.asiascienic.com). GayRay is a chef, art historian, and world traveler. When time allows, she travels to Cambodia to work on her art/anthropological studies.

I attended her afternoon class. Her sister, Nongnu, picked me up at the hotel and proceeded to take me on a personalized tour of the local market. The local market is where locals go to buy their ingredients to prepare meals. Our capable charming guide provided an informal comfortable stroll through the market with an easy explanation of the elaborate and artful combination of spices, plants, herbs, and meat comprising the Thai diet.

After the market, we proceeded to the school’s fully equipped outdoor kitchen to learn how to cook an ambitious five item Thai menu. Thai cooking is surprisingly simple and quick. Preparation is so speedy, Gay labels Thai style cooked food as “fast food.” Indeed, in less than four hours we successfully prepared five dishes with time to leisurely dine on our feast. Perhaps more fun than learning, was laughing, teasing, and spending time getting to know Gay, her sister, Nongnu, and her gracious assistants. We also had the pleasure of meeting her sweet little dog—jaosuo (millionaire).

Hidden Seamstress/Textile Shop

My other favorite find was the young seamstress located directly ACROSS from the entrance of the Rachamankha hotel. Her name is Pin and her small stall exhibits textile artifacts rivaling some showrooms I visited in Manhattan. Her space is primitive—but her work is worthy of a close look. She has clothes ethnic designs adorned with old hilltribe fabrics, purses of all sizes and most items can be made to order. I gave her some silk and she whipped up six pairs of pants, two dresses, and eight camisoles. My designs are primitive—definitely not tailored—but darling. Think DOSA style for you mavens.

Off the beaten track—Field Village

I also checked into the field village. This is boutique village resort—but really feels like going to the burbs to visit your friends. Jong, the proprietor, picked me up at the airport and proceeded to pick up her daughter at school before arriving at the village. Her daughter is a doll and studying on weekends to ensure placement in the math/science section for her school admission. Jong has become a friend. I think this is typical for Jong and most of her guests. She is an invaluable resource for getting about the “real” Chiang Mai. She will personally escort you on a shopping excursion to the local markets. She can also hook you up with a good cooking, massage, thai language or yoga school. I was introduced to Jong because she will be personally escorting me to the Ban Mae Maeh Orphanage up in the mountains outside of Chiang Mai for an overnight stay.

The field village is a hidden sanctuary with scads of flowers bordering wooden platform paths leading to each guesthouse in the midst of flowing fields with a view of the far away mountains. It is cozy, comfortable and has most amenities to be comfortable. Jong arranged for a room massage and a tailor to come to my cottage. Later, I am sleeping in the blowing reeds, singing birds, and croaking frogs. Misleadingly remote, this respite is just a few minutes from the airport—only evident by a plane occasionally flying overhead. Field Village was listed as top 10 hidden gems of Asia by tripadvisor.