Active/Adventure: Places: Insider Advice on Patagonia

Insider Advice on Patagonia

As a former Butterfield & Robinson guide, Muriel Truter has visited over fifty countries and lived in England, Israel, Canada and Zimbabwe, where she was raised. Using her lifetime of travel experience, Truter recently launched her own bespoke travel company, Askari Travel (www.askaritravel.com), which guides discerning clients through Africa, South America and Asia. Here she shares some of her suggestions on how to best enjoy Patagonia.

What is an ideal itinerary for visiting Patagonia?

A combination of three nights at Las Balsas (54-2944-494308; www.lasbalsas.com) in the Lake District of Argentina followed by three nights at Helsingfors (54-11-4315-1222; www.helsingfors.com.ar) in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, north west of El Calafate. End with four nights at the Explora Hotel Salto Chico in Torres del Paine, Chile. This gives you the best of the massive landscapes, glaciers, lakes and awe-inspiring peaks that straddle the southern Andes of Argentina and Chile. This offers a gentle introduction to the region’s beauty by way of the lakes and forests around Las Balsas (and their fabulous dining room). It is a nice contrast with the peace and simplicity of a small working estancia at Helsingfors and the grand finale of the massive wilderness and towering peaks around the Explora.

Do you have a favorite hotel?

The architecture and view from every window at the Explora Hotel Salto Chico seems to purposely reinforce the remote majesty and vastness of the landscape. The hikes and rides are limitless and geared to your mood and energy level by a team of guides who know the terrain like the back of their hands.

How would you design a perfect day in Patagonia?

Take the full day trek to Laguna Azul from Helsingfors, with a splendid picnic lunch overlooking the lake and the glacier; you can do it on foot or on horseback. Afterwards, gather around the roaring fire in the living room of the lodge for a cognac – weary, happy and ready for a great dinner.

What is your favorite Patagonian food?

Chimichurri – the ever-present spicy Argentine steak sauce found on every table.

Where have you had the best meal?

The venison with blackcurrent at Las Balsas [a Relais & Chateaux property] – everything they do in the kitchen is magical. And they have a great wine cellar.

Patagonia isn’t known for its shopping, but is there anything a visitor should buy?

Intricately carved and silver in-laid mate bowls – you will probably never use them back home but they will remind of the ritual perhaps shared with a gaucho. [Editor’s note: Mate is a typical Argentine beverage, similar to tea, is made from brewing dried herbs.]

What should a traveler know before they go?

The weather is very unpredictable. Dress accordingly to enjoy the great outdoors. And don’t rely on being able to wear contact lenses. The wind makes them uncomfortable, so bring an excellent pair of wrap-around sunglasses. Also, the distances between regions and places make it such that there are some long road transfers that cannot be avoided – but the views whilst driving are magnificent.