New York: Where to Eat: Classics: Chanterelle

Chanterelle

In a city where the average lifespan of a restaurant seems on par with that of light bulb, Chanterelle has remained relevant for almost thirty years. Originally opened in 1979, owners Karen and David Waltuck moved their refined French eatery to its current Tribeca location in 1989. Since then, a table in its elegant dining room has become one of the neighborhood’s most coveted reservations, a guaranteed home run for diners tired of watching the chef-du-jour scramble for first base. Waltuck’s menu changes monthly, offering serious incentive to return frequently and dine on the newest additions to the menu.

A recent visit produced a flawless tasting of wild mushrooms followed by tender sweetbreads served with sweet caramelized leeks, and the cheese plate featured a divine selection of fromage that put other artisanal tastings to shame. The restaurant’s soaring windows, Queen Ann chairs, and grand chandeliers lend the space a sense of serious sophistication, while carpeted floors, absence of music and well-space tables (a true rarity in Manhattan) quiets the normal hum of a packed dining room. That said, Chanterelle lacks any pretension. Service is flawless, yet waiters are friendly and well-informed, happy to answer questions about ingredients or preparation. The sommelier, often the most intimidating person on staff, will cheerfully guide novices through the 5,000-bottle-list of Bordeaux and Burgundies. (Even aficionados might need some help, as the cellar contains a selection of unusual bottles from smaller producers as well as the more famous names.)

Of course, perfection doesn’t come cheap. Diners choose between the standard three-course menu ($98) and the six-course tasting menu ($140), to which a pairing of Old and New World wines can be added for $85. But when celebrating a special occasion or entertaining clients, few places can top this classic culinary temple.