England: London: Where to Eat: Relaxed but Refined: Murano
Gordon Ramsay protégé Angela Hartnett, who previously had a Michelin star when she oversaw the Grill Room in the Connaught, has regained her shine with her Mayfair restaurant, Murano. Hartnett unveiled two new spots this year. Though her down-home York & Albany in Ramsay’s new inn near Regent’s Park may be the tougher reservation to get, it’s her polished dining room just off Curzon Street that has won a star. In a slim dining room of white, cream and grey palettes, Hartnett pays homage to Italian cuisine and her family’s heritage. Best dishes such as pumpkin tortelli with sage emulsion and crushed amaretti and sea bass with white beans and spiced tomato don’t try too hard to surprise; others like halibut with parsnip puree with oxtail and salisfy go too far. The only off note on a recent visit came from the abrupt service, including a very aggressive push to upgrade our wine selection. The private dining room seats ten and looks into the open kitchen. A great deal is the £25 set lunch. At dinner there is no a la carte menu, but a prix fixe three course for £55 or a more expensive menu. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.