London: Where to Eat: Relaxed but Refined: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

France’s celebrated chef saved Londoners a trip through the Chunnel when he opened one of his “workshop” restaurants in the West End two years ago. This outpost shares the same counter concept on the main floor, but the second floor offers table seating in a casual dining room and the third floor is a salon bar for private parties. Cosmopolitan celebrities such as George Clooney, Matt Damon and Kylie Minogue have dined in the sleek black and red interiors. Christina Aguilera recently gathered her friends there for an intimate celebration. Only the main floor is open for lunch, and with prix fixe menus of 19 pound for two courses or 25 pound for three courses, it’s a gourmet bargain.

If you’re planning dinner for two, make a reservation at the stunning black counter on Robuchon’s ground floor. The sleek decor is complemented by organic touches: bowls of ice topped with red apples, goldfish bowls filled with carrot and cucumber shavings, birdcages stuffed with lemons. There’s a splendid grazing menu, too, including ravioli of langoustine stuffed with shellfish, foie gras–stuffed quail and tiny burgers in buns the size of eggs. The romantic top-floor bar is wonderful for pre- or post-theater cocktails. This place is both popular and pricey, so save it for special occasions, and book early.