Florence: Where to Eat: Big Night Out: Alle Murate

Alle Murate

Florence is a city better known for its cultural venues than for great restaurants (many places tend toward the touristy). A wonderful exception is Alle Murate, which combines art and refined cuisine in one of Italy’s most unique restaurant settings. The Palazzo dell’Arte dei Giudici e Notai, a former 14th-century guildhall, has walls that are covered in well-preserved frescoes. Chef and owner Umberto Montano’s cooking gives regional classics a creative spin, and dishes might include bean soup with crayfish and crunchy sage; artichoke and cuttlefish stew; and orange-scented pigeon. Before or after the meal, you should take the guided tour (it’s available in English), which leads you through the candlelit space, from the ceiling frescoes all the way down to the ancient foundations.

— Elizabeth Helman Minchilli 05/22/2007