Escape: Places: Grand Greece

Grand Greece

The Greeks call it lykofos —“wolf light,” the Mediterranean dusk that casts an eerie violet glow over the stone cityscape of Nafplion.

The city’s nightly transformation into a maze of hauntingly lit fortresses is especially dramatic viewed from the Amphitryon Hotel. Whether you’re standing on the deck of a penthouse suite or on the terrace of the sexy white-on-white Veranda bar, the prospect is essentially the same: the Old City’s cobbled streets and buildings, dating from the period of Venetian occupation, the distant lights of Argos, and Bourtzi, a lone citadel floating in the indigo waters of the Argolic Gulf. Hanging just above the hotel is Akronafplia, the ancient acropolis on which is perched a Byzantine castle.

In the 1960s, the Greek government picked this choice spot to build one of the hotels it intended to be the crème de la crème of the nation’s tourist industry. Operating until recently under the name Xenia, these properties were situated within historical monuments, culturally rich sites, areas with iconic views or—as in the case of Amphitryon—all of the above.

The Nafplion Xenia was bought by Helios Hotels Resorts, which gave it a ground-up renovation and reopened it in 2003, to a lot of raised eyebrows. Helios’s Elounda Beach Hotel, in Crete, may have set the luxury standard in Greece for years, but this was a location of historic consequence. The makeover had replaced Onassis-era modernism with a contemporary design on par with those of important hotels around the world. No one is complaining, of course. Who could argue with the floating trapezoid bar in the Onyx lounge or the fireplace made of the material that gives the room its name? Or the amoeba-shaped light fixture and abstract marble-mosaic inlays in the lobby? Or the spare lines of the carefully edited furniture?

The experience of staying there is as seductive as the decor. All forty-two rooms and three suites have pleasing techno gizmos, like remote-controlled blinds, as well as marble bathrooms and sunning decks or balconies with unobstructed views of Bourtzi and the gulf. The hotel’s Circle restaurant serves nouvelle Mediterranean cuisine made with traditional Greek ingredients—cucumber carpaccio with watermelon and aromatic olive-oil emulsion, for example—in a sleek room decorated in a monochromatic palette. The Veranda is an ideal place to sip a tsipouro or a glass of Agiorgitiko from the vineyards of nearby Nemea.

But Amphitryon’s mystique really derives from its surroundings. It is carved from the same hunk of rock as Akronafplia and is within steps (999, to be exact, although it sure feels like more) of the Palamidi fort. It’s no more than a half hour’s drive from the palace of Agamemnon at Mycenae and the Epidaurus amphitheater, both marvels of antiquity. History is so palpable here that the breeze feels like the breath of ancients. Even the Greeks don’t have a word for that. Rooms from $336.

Location: The Old City of Nafplion, in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is perched on the edge of the Argolic Gulf and has served as a port since the Bronze Age. It also was the first capital of post-Ottoman Greece.

Getting There: The hotel can arrange transfers from Athens’ Eleftherios Venizelos Airport to Nafplion via private limousine (ninety minutes) or helicopter (thirty minutes).

Who Should Go: If you have a healthy appreciation for history, design and an elevated, yet authentic, Greek experience, Amphitryon will not disappoint.

Who Should Not Go: Do remember this hotel is in the heart of the city. If you want to decompress in complete serenity, you might find the noise from the ubiquitous mopeds annoying.

Ideal Length of Stay: A week. Make it a jumping-off point for day trips to Mycenae, Olympia, Nemea and Epidaurus. Exploring Nafplion takes at least three days. In addition to the castles, there are terrific shops for jewelry, clothing and locally made handicrafts, including icons, art glass, textiles and dolls.

Rooms to Get: The three Luxury Suites on the fourth (highest) level measure about 500 square feet inside and have enormous terraces overlooking the gulf and the city.

INDAGARE TIP: If you visit in the summer, do not miss the opportunity to see ancient Greek drama performed at the equally ancient Epidaurus theater. Built in the 3rd century B.C., this marble amphitheater, tucked into a wooded hillside, is famed for its acoustics. Even without microphones, the actors’ voices project to the top tiers. This year’s Epidaurus Festival, from May 31 through August 25, includes Sophocles’ Electra and Racine’s Andromache, among other plays. ~DAPHNE NIKOLOPOULOS

Editor’s Note: The hotel’s pool is closed for renovations until January 31, 2009. Guests will have access to the pool at the Amphitryon’s sister hotel, which is next door and is connected by a path.