Beijing: Where to Eat: Newcomers: LAN Club

LAN Club

New to the Beijing restaurant scene, this is the place to capture the Zeitgeist. It is a large, flashy and ambitious restaurant—some might say vulgar. LAN Club is the latest addition to the South Beauty chain, a series of Szechuan-style restaurants founded by a Chinese woman who was determined to bring in the levels of service and efficiency she had so admired while living in the States. She has gone for the big and boastful concept; it is gargantuan, taking up the entire floor of a mall, with over-the-top designer Philippe Starck letting his imagination run riot. The decor is Versailles with ostentation—plush velvet sofas, chandeliers, extravagant paintings. Needless to say, the nouveau riche Chinese have been seduced by it; it’s simply the place to see and be seen. The food is primarily Szechuan (which means “spicy”) with cuisines from other regions as well. Service was patchy when the restaurant opened, but the glitches seem to have been ironed out; the staff are mostly friendly, willing and clearly proud to be part of such a groundbreaking project. It also has several bars in its labyrinthine space, including a cigar divan, where it is possible to go for a pre- or postprandial drink. Do not miss a visit if you want to see New China at play.