Mara Nyika Lodge's hyper-private tented suites and luxurious personalized service that provide both relaxation and world-class game viewing.

A review of the rustic-luxe Ol Donyo Lodge in Kenya, situated on 275,000 acres with views of the Chyulu Hills and Kilimanjaro.

Located in Kenya’s Laikipia plateau, the lavish Segera Retreat safari lodge has an incredible bird's nest–like platform for sleeping under the stars.

Originally opened as an andBeyond property in 1998, this mainstay in the Masai Mara is located on one of the film sites for Out of Africa, at the foot of the Oloololo escarpment, and it is known for its veteran staff, great access to the best private game viewing and more social safari lodge atmosphere.

The Indagare Team were among the very first through the door to see Angama Amboseli, which sits within the Kimana Sanctuary, a 5,700-acre conservancy that is communally owned by local Maasai. The sanctuary serves as an important wildlife corridor that provides safe passage along a centuries-old migratory path for lions, cheetahs, Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelles, zebras, elands and especially elephants, between Amboseli National Park (where the majority of guests' game drives take place) and the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo national parks. As this area sits just across the border with Tanzania, guests can also enjoy prime views of Mount Kilimanjaro throughout their trip, weather allowing.

The property encompasses 10 suites and a compact main lodge area, which contains a fire pit, open-air dining area, an honor bar, photography and weaving studios, a small art gallery and safari boutique, a kids' entertainment room and an inner courtyard. There is also a small infinity-edge pool (with a drinking trough to attract wildlife, it's a top photo spot) and the Mnara viewing tower—a property highlight offering 360-degree, open-air views over the sanctuary, in a treehouse-style space (it's best enjoyed at sunset, with a cocktail). Throughout, the architecture and design celebrate the area's elephant population, from the select pieces of artwork (including charcoal and watercolor drawings, large-format photos and bronze-cast murals) to the lodge's very walls, which were made from a mix of elephant dung and concrete (that also helps to keep interiors cool). A few pops of color—namely, fever-tree green and Maasai red—are sprinkled throughout an otherwise grey-centered palette. The aesthetic is contemporary and Brutalist in nature—emphasizing raw, exposed materials, blocky, geometric shapes and unadorned open spaces—which stands in unique contrast to the warm colors, layered textures and antiques of many traditional safari lodges.

The standalone suites, some of which can be connected, similarly employ concrete, stone, canvas, linen and rattan to create an earthy, subdued atmosphere—and they are designed to offer guests their own private hideaway in which to relax and take in the scenery, as the seating in the public areas is more limited. An entryway with double doors provides space for boots and jackets, as well as a convenient drop-off spot for the morning wake-up coffee (and cookie) delivery. Floor-to-ceiling screen doors open out onto private porches with rocking chairs—and it's possible to catch a glimpse of passing ellies from the four-poster bed. There's a writing desk and a complimentary cabinet bar, and the closet and bathroom areas are spacious, with double-sink vanities and a double indoor shower, a useful work bench for dirty clothing and an outdoor shower. (The toilet is located in its own chamber, behind a proper door—which is not always a guarantee while on safari!) As with most lodges, laundry services are available on a complimentary basis. There is no spa or gym, but massages can be arranged in-room (and the sizable bathroom accommodates for this well); light exercise equipment is also provided in-room—as are binoculars. Note: Of the ten suites, there are two pairs of connected family suites, which can accommodate up to two adults and four children.

The food at Angama Amboseli is a particular standout, with rotating menus highlighting fresh, garden-grown ingredients and a range of international cuisines like Italian, Mediterranean and Indian. (A traditional Kenyan barbecue can also be requested.) In the words of Indagare COO Eliza Harris: "The food at Angama Amboseli was so good that we had the entire kitchen staff come out so that we could cheer them and praise specific dishes. We needed to know who made the coconut-crusted fish tacos, the insanely good oatmeal cookies, and the tangy, fresh pomegranate and arugula salad. A party of eight who liked to taste as much as possible, our standard move was to say, 'We’ll take two of everything on the menu.'"

60 percent of the all-star Amboseli team hails from the surrounding area, while many others have come to Amboseli from the Mara sister property—like eight-year Angama veteran Elvis (who explained the difference between the two properties as such, "in the Mara, we look down at the mountain; here, we look up") and Alice, who is breaking ground for women in the industry, as the head of the Amboseli guiding program (she was also one of the first female guides in Kenya, ever). In their company, game drives head outside of the sanctuary to Amboseli National Park, where elephants, lions, leopards, buffalos, hyenas, hippos and a plethora of herbivores and birds can be seen; rhinos are currently not present in the park. Amboseli is reached from the lodge by a 90-minute drive, which presents more of a commute than at many other safari lodges (though efforts are in the works to open up a shorter access corridor). However, those who are willing to make the trip will be rewarded by the chance to search for Super Tuskers (like the beloved 50-year-old Craig) and Emerging Tuskers, as well as unique, vivid marsh landscapes (a haven for hungry elephants and flamingos alike) and quirky points of interest like the abandoned Amboseli Lodge—all set against the regal backdrop of Kilimanjaro.

Learn more about the property—and get Nairobi and Johannesburg travel tips—from Kate Fitzgerald Boyd, one-half of the mother-daughter duo who own and manage the Angama portfolio, here. In her words: “Where Angama Mara is seriously sexy in her aesthetic of warm tones and vibrant color, drawing on the lodge’s location in the heart of Maasailand, Angama Amboseli is hopelessly handsome following the bold inspiration of the cooler tones of the mountain, the chartreuse of the fever tree forests and the curves of an elephant. At Angama, we always want the design of our lodges to give a sense of place to our guests.”

Located in southeastern Kenya between the Amboseli and Tsavo national parks, Campi ya Kanzi is known for its authenticity. The owners, Luca Belpietro and Antonella Bonomi, bring a certain European charm to the proceedings, particularly when it comes to the communal dinners featuring home-made pasta and wine, along with a multilingual United Nations-worthy diversity of guests. The couple also helped found the Masai Wilderness Conservation Trust (MWCT), an organization whose mission is to preserve the ecosystem and work to conserve the biodiversity of the Masai tribal lands while creating sustainable benefits for the community: the board includes actor Edward Norton and Samson Parashina, a Masai warrior and safari guide, among others.

There’s a real sense of conviviality at Campi ya Kanzi: the resident Masai guides—Matasha, Pashiet, Parashi and Sunte—are considered family, and their guided walks, with their emphasis on tracking animals, can feel like being inducted into a insider’s club. (Don’t expect to see the vast numbers of game you might in places like the Mara or Serengeti, but the landscapes are equally stunning, and you’ll feel like you have the whole place to yourself, blessedly free of mini-vans.)

Accommodations are constructed of native timber, local lava rocks and canvas, with views over the plains and waterholes, often visited by cheeky baboons. With only six tented cottages and two suites—all solar-powered and outfitted in Colonial-inspired rustic-luxe style with log beds and porcelain sinks—the camp hosts no more than fourteen visitors at a time. The main Tembo House resembles something out of an African version of Lord of the Rings, all undulating thatched roofs, chimneys and lava stone walls. One of the highlights of the property is the breathtaking views of Mount Kilimanjaro, visible from most of the cottages and the main house: its ever-changing face, brooding across the border in Tanzania, is enough to inspire a Hemingway-esque short story of your own.

Founded by one of the co-authors of the ground-breaking book, Among the Elephants, this camp in northern Kenya represents the culmination of a lifelong love for wildlife and a passion to protect it. Iain Douglas-Hamilton, the renowned zoologist, wrote Among the Elephants with his wife Oria and now runs Save the Elephants, but it was Oria who determined to bring travelers in close contact with pachyderms.

The camp, located in the Samburu Reserve, takes only ten guests, who sleep in dreamy desert tents and often eat under trees, which are occupied by curious monkeys. Elephants are the focus of the camp, and sixty-six known family units spend time in the Samburu. Tribesmen lead walks along elephant paths and point out matriarchs and babies by name. The evening can be spent on a huge sofa, watching elephant documentaries starring the Douglas-Hamiltons (Iain and their daughter Saba have worked on BBC and National Geographic films.) However, lion, leopard, zebra, giraffe and other species inhabit the Samburu, which can be explored on game drives, escorted hikes or rafting trips when the river is high.

Situated on a 35-acre private property between the Chyulu Hills and Mount Kilimanjaro, providing access to the 22,000-square-kilometer Tsavo National Park—Kenya’s largest and oldest wildlife reserve—Finch Hattons is a nostalgic treasure of a safari camp, largely inspired by the adventure-meets-luxury legacy of Denys Finch Hattons (the safari pioneer and aristocrat most famously portrayed in Karen Blixen's Out of Africa). Founded in 1993 as a passion project and fully renovated in 2015, Finch Hattons marries Old World elegance and creature comforts with family-friendly warmth and local soulfulness, largely thanks to the fantastic Kenyan team who runs the lodge—many of whom have been with the property since its inception.

Seeking to evoke the romance, hospitality and glamour of the 1920s safari, Finch Hattons' founders, the Gehlot family and renowned hotelier Peter Frank, opened the camp in 1993. It closed in 2012 for a full renovation, reopening in 2015. However, the traditional details remain—from the china and crystal tableware used at meals to the brass gramophones, old photographs and vintage trunks dotted around the main lodge. (They've also preserved two of the original tents, so guests can admire the transformation.)

The property is spread out around a natural watering hole, which attracts a wide variety of wildlife, from hippos, elephants and crocodiles to Vervet monkeys and southern masked weaver birds. (The weaver birds nest near the tented suites and are a particular joy to observe from bed or the private deck—while guests are advised upon arrival to take particular care to keep the monkeys out.)

There are 17 tented suites total, including two-bedroom family options (accommodating five guests) and the 200-square-meter, ultra-private Finch Hattons Suite (which includes the services of a private butler and chef, and a separate room for guests traveling with staff). The suites are designed to fully immerse guests in the beautiful nature that surrounds—from the self-cooling makuti palm leaf roofs to the floor-to-ceiling screen doors that open onto wide, waterfront observation decks with nap-friendly couches. The suites are spacious and very comfortable, with helpful details like built-in power adaptors (so there's no need for converters) and a three-tiered layout (resulting in uninterrupted views from any vantage point). Chandeliers, leather tufted bed frames and brass-trimmed bar cabinets layer on the romance. Bathrooms include double-sink vanities, tubs and both indoor and outdoor showers, heated by solar power.

The tented suites fan out from the watering hole, which fronts the main pavilion area—and they are linked by stretches of volcanic-sand walking paths, providing the chance to enjoy nature walks even within camp. The main pavilion is packed with personality (playful accents include a Coca-Cola-bottle chandelier and brightly patterned Kenyan fabrics), and there are plenty of living rooms and nooks to cozy up in for a meal, card game or good book by the fireplace.

Several dining venues are on offer, including a poolside lounge and a star-gazing terrace, which is perfect for a special occasion private meal. (Editor's Note: While we were there in November 2023, the staff threw the most magical birthday dinner here for a member of our group.) There is also a cigar lounge and wine cave, tucked off of the Karen Blixen lounge and main pavilion bar areas. The all-day, rotating menu largely reflects the produce of the on-site greenhouse—and the food at Finch Hattons is a major highlight: fresh, varied, healthy and satisfying. Guests can rest assured that they will be very well-fed here, and any dietary restriction or special request—say, asking to order everything on the menu, family-style—can be accommodated by the veteran kitchen team.

In addition to daily game drives into Tsavo National Park, which is six times the size of the Maasai Mara and is perhaps best known for its elephant population, activities on offer at Finch Hattons include birding, walking safaris, hiking and cultural immersion experiences with the local Maasai, including a lively "Maasai Olympics" tournament, in which guests can learn about Maasai culture while competing in games and enjoying sundowners (the Kenyan gin and tonic is a must-try). 

There is also a well-outfitted spa and fitness center, including a large infinity lap pool and yoga loft (where the on-site instructor can lead private sessions, anytime), a hammam and two treatment cabins—in addition to the family pool and deck. This gives Finch Hattons a stronger wellness focus than is found at other similarly traditional safari lodges. There is also a small kids' club for young explorers.

Having breakfast with a giraffe probably tops the list of best-ever meals for those lucky to have experienced it. Giraffe Manor, on the outskirts of Nairobi, offers its guests the chance to live on the grounds of special giraffe sanctuary, and yes, to dine with the glorious animals. Guests who check in to Giraffe Manor, can open their drapes in the morning and see a parade of beauties. Downstairs in the breakfast room, Lynn or one of the other gregarious giraffes will reach her head right in the window to request her morning pellets. Cosmos, the head houseman, serves coffee and eggs to guests while they, in turn, can feed the giraffes (and their companion warthogs).

The handsome ivy-covered stone lodge, the kind you would expect to find in Scotland, has the trappings of many colonial estates—fine antiques, family portraits, well-worn books. However, in their love for animals the Leslie-Melvilles, the family who lived here for decades, went beyond collecting sculptures and painting of game. After a trip in 1974 to a Kenyan cattle ranch, Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville brought a baby endangered Rothschild giraffe home with them. At the time, there were only 120 of the species alive, and the Leslie-Melvilles were the first people known to raise a giraffe, which they called Daisy. Their initial success inspired them to acquire four more babies, which grew into a breeding herd, and eventually the Leslie-Melvilles were able to relocate offspring to reserves in Kenya and Uganda. There are now approximately 500 Rothschild giraffe living in the wild. A number of the descendants of the original Daisy still wander the 140 acres surrounding the manor. And with the breakfast ritual in place, sightings are guaranteed. There’s a wonderful ambiance in the house, which still feels like a private home, thanks to the family’s memorabilia. (Be sure to look for the book Raising Daisy Rothschild and other titles that Betty wrote documenting her animal adventures.) Guest rooms resemble those that you would find in the house of a grand elderly aunt with floral bedspreads and ceramic tiled bathrooms.

Upon arrival at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, and after a 45-minute drive to the city’s Langata neighborhood, travelers arrive at the oasis that is Eden, and are swiftly enveloped in designer Anna Trzebinski’s world. Guests are greeted first by Samburu warriors in traditional clothing and then by the sounds of the forest and cozy fire blazing in the living room. The energy is palpable, as is the feeling of immediate connectedness to a culture. While Nairobi has traditionally been looked at as a quick overnight destination before heading to the bush, Eden in itself is an argument to stay longer. , Anna’s hope is that her hotel—managed by a small Kenyan hotel brand, the Hemingways collection—is seen as a retreat, a place to spend multiple nights reconnecting while disconnecting.

The design across the property is as quirky as it is charming—think ostrich eggs hanging from the ceiling, fur throws and abundant abstract artwork. It comprises two houses with eight rooms (three in the main house and five in the studio annex). The main house, called Mount Kenya, has bedrooms named after its three main peaks. (Batian is the most spacious, with a walk-in wardrobe and large private balcony.) The house is equipped with an open-plan dining area, bar, living room with a fireplace and veranda, as well as a divinity room. The studio annex has three standalone rooms with a bedroom and bathroom on the bottom level, a living area on the top floor and two bedrooms set above another open-plan living room with a fireplace, bar and dining area. The communal spaces at Eden are serene and calm, while still facilitating encounters between guests.

Eden also houses an Artist Residence Cottage, called Ololokwe—after the sacred mountain that stands alone north of Isiolo—which is available to rent on a weekly or monthly basis. The fact that you’re staying in the former home of a fashion designer is evident in the deeply stylish, personal decor. A coffee table constructed of dhow wood displays dozens of ostrich eggs under a glass top, and most tables showcase colorful glassware hand-blown at a Nairobi glass studio. Butterfly murals line the hallways and trays are painted with animals by the Hog Ranch Studio artists who worked with Anna’s friend, the late photographer Peter Beard. Paintings by Anna’s late husband, Tonio Trzebinski, are displayed throughout, as are the works of their children (her daughter is a ceramicist, and her son is a sculptor). An additional perk of staying here is the proximity to Anna’s working atelier and boutique, so guests have the opportunity to shop her high-design coats, shawls and bags, all with gorgeous African embroidery.

At Eden, everything from the cocktail menu and coffee selection to the delicious food is authentically Kenyan. The sundeck facing a pond is an ideal location to enjoy a sundowner or a meal. Guests can go on forest walks in the hotel’s own backyard with the Samburu and can visit the nearby David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s Nairobi Elephant Orphanage, the Giraffe Center (home to Giraffe Manor’s Rothschild’s giraffes) and the Karen Blixen Museum, which houses many of Blixen’s personal effects and props from the movie Out of Africa (the book has often been published under Blixen’s pen name, Isak Dinesen). There is also the opportunity to visit artisans, markets and shops that are farther afield in the city.

Unless you take over the main house or studio annex rooms, it is important to enjoy communal living to get the most out of an Eden stay. The hotel is best for those who are not bothered by animals roaming the property, be they guinea fowls and peacocks or monkeys (who might act as your morning wake up call when they jump on the roof).

Opened in March of 2022, Ishara is the passion project of the Kenyan Madhani family—led by their son and young co-founder, Azhar, and born from his friendship with the local Maasai. After many years of camping with his Maasai friends along the Talek River, Azhar set out to build a lodge that would benefit the local community for many years to come—and share the magic of this special part of the Mara with others. The family spared no time, energy or expense in pooling their passions and interests to collaborate in dreaming up and then bringing to fruition an incredibly special 10-tent lodge that redefines the classic safari and creates a truly special guest experience. Named for the Swahili word for "sign," Ishara invites guests into a special home in the bush and encourages travelers to relax, listen to and embrace all of the signs that nature gives us. 

Perched along the Talek River, Ishara's location endows the camp with its very own private watering hole, and the animals often come to drink, so guests can watch them from the comfort of their private decks. Beyond, the game-viewing is incredible—as the lodge is located in a very wildlife-rich area. It would not be uncommon to see both a leopard and a cheetah, among other animals, in a single game drive. The trade-off is that this part of the Maasai Mara (the Maasai Mara National Reserve) has a higher vehicle density, especially in the peak season of June to September. If you can get past that, the game-viewing will make up for it.

Ishara further enhances the experience by providing guests with a wonderful and innovative photography program, which includes use of their Canon cameras, access to their photographers-in-residence for photography lessons and pointers (they will even join you for a game drive to provide live instruction, if you’d like) and a beautiful photo studio for editing and printing photos. This program takes the guests’ attention off of the other vehicles at a sighting, and refocuses it on wildlife photography—and getting that perfect shot. And by providing private vehicles for all guests, Ishara ensures that all game-viewing experiences and schedules can be customized to your preferences.

The public spaces are well-located, welcoming and charmingly decorated, and they foster social interaction with other guests while also making room for a few private dining spots for memorable meals. The tented rooms are the perfect size, layout and design—exactly where you want to be for your midday and evening respite. They have luxurious touches like large double-basin sinks in the bathroom, a beautiful open rain shower (both indoors and outdoors) and an outdoor copper tub with a privacy screen. The curation of design elements is impressive, from the hand-crafted wooden furniture from the island of Lamu off the Kenyan coast to the custom Ishara birdlife coloring book and the personal Nespresso machine. Nothing is over-the-top or grandiose, and the luxury is really in the details. All of this contributes to Ishara feeling more like a home than a lodge—a sanctuary in the Mara. 

The camp has two beautiful elevated bridges connecting one side of the river with the other, creating a treehouse feel, but the property is connected by a network of sandy pathways through the trees (there is always a friendly Maasai warrior to walk you to your room). Among the 10 accommodations are a pair of two-bedroom family suites, as well as a villa suite, made up of two separate suites and an adjoining entertainment area with private plunge pool, fire pit and dining area (perfect for families or groups of friends). 

Within a cluster of trees is a relaxing spa zone with a welcome tent, pool, dining area, gym and elevated treehouse spa tent for treatments. There is also an observation deck and starbed for a sleep-out experience.

The menus are à la carte and the food is fresh, delicious and satisfying. To the delight of someone on a multi-stop safari, the portions are smaller, and there are lots of healthy options. Whether you’re in the mood for a craft cocktail or freshly brewed espresso, a local curry dish or a cheeseburger, they can do it all.

Akin to many other Indagare-favorite lodges in Kenya, like Segera and Finch Hattons, Ishara shines because of the Madhani family's personal vision, and their careful attention to detail in bringing that vision to life. They are also conservation-focused—and not only was not a single tree cut down in the building of the lodge but, in fact, over 12,000 trees have been planted at Ishara since construction. They are fully solar-powered, employ an extensive rainwater harvesting system and tend their own shamba (garden) to grow a lot of their own foods to eliminate waste (and guarantee quality). And most of all, the warm and fun Kenyan staff truly find joy in sharing the Ishara experience with their guests. By the time you leave, you, too, feel like family.

Mara Expedition is an intimate safari camp, offering raised canvas tented accommodations for those looking to explore the vast Masai Mara.

This intimate hideaway has views over the magnificent Laikipia region comprising savanna, hills and desert, with glimpses of Mount Kenya. Accommodation is in four luxurious houses set on a granite kopje (tall rocky outcrop), a boon for those who prefer solid walls to tents. Luxury perks abound: a stunning horizon pool, viewing platform with telescope, a deck with fireplace, along with Old World pursuits like bocce and croquet. Each hilltop “home” comes with its own kitchen, dining room, deck and full staff, including a dedicated butler and safari guide. The 360-degree views over the landscape are a highlight. Both day and evening safaris are available within the 14,500-acre private conservancy, as are horse and camel rides and even mountain biking.

Singita Mara River Camp, a member of the Singita Grumeti family of lodges, is located in the northern Serengeti on the banks of the Mara river, where there is an incredible concentration of wildlife. In the months of June, July and August, it occupies an incredible position to see the annual Great Migration. With only six tents (four doubles and two family tents, which can accommodate two adults and two children), the camp offers an intimate experience with excellent guides. Operating on solar power, the camp is eco camping at its most stylish. Unzip the canvas flap to enter your tent and you will find a double bed made up with fine linens. The lounge tent features hip wicker armchairs and chaise lounges with views of the river. There’s a hipster meets Hemingway aspect to the décor that strikes just the right note for a modern take on refined living in the wilderness. Most visitors combine a stay here with the Singita Grumeti properties; this should be the first stop. The camp is open ten months of the year (closed in March and April.)

The Sirikoi is one of the top lodges in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in large part due to its owners, the Roberts family.