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On our first full day in Tanzania, my two sons and I sat out on the terrace of our room at the Four Seasons Serengeti watching game ambling across the vast open plains. The long grasses, baked crisp by the sun, rustled in the breeze with a hollow rattle. Topi, gazelles, impalas and zebras strolled in single file past olive-green acacias towards a small watering hole about 40 feet from where we sat. Occasionally a foal would startle and everyone would break into a canter. Warthogs swatted their tails, waiting for their turn, while zebras knelt on their forelegs to drink. As I scanned the distance, I spotted a long, jagged dark grey line heading towards us. Elephants! My sons and I sped to the resort pool area, which overlooks a larger watering hole. Led by a sturdy bull, a herd of 32 elephants emerged from around the rocks, not 10 feet from us. We watched transfixed as they drank and waded in the cool water, the babies fully submerging for a swim, others slapping mud on their sides with their trunks. Two juveniles got into a shoving match, to the delight of my boys. There was a little baby just a few weeks old who wanted to roll around and splash in the water. His balance was wobbly, so his mother kept a guiding trunk on him to help him stay upright.
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