Walkways at Ancient Capital Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka

Ancient Capital Anuradhapura

This Unesco World Heritage site is famous for its well-preserved archeological ruins that demonstrate just how far back Sri Lankan civilization spans. Anuradhapura is one of the world's oldest, continuously inhabited cities (it was founded in the 4th century BC). Today, the sprawling archeological site, with several majestic dagobas (stupas), temples and monastic buildings, is best explored via bike (contact Indagare to be connected with a great local company) or with a car and driver.

It's key to explore the district with a local guide who can create a good itinerary of the highlights—it's impossible to see everything in a single visit—including the stunning Jetavanaramaya dagoba, which was the world's second-largest structure when it was completed in the third century BC (outranked only by Egypt's pyramids), and the serene Elephant Pool, a perfect spot for a picnic.

Touring Anuradhapura will take the better part of a whole day; afterwards, travelers should relax at Indagare's favorite resort nearby, spread across 58 acres and with a lovely pool and a small spa for afternoon relaxing.

Indagare Tip: For active travelers, Indagare can organize a wonderful biking excursion in Anuradhapura. A local guide will lead the way, taking you through back alleys and mixing some lesser-known, abandoned sites in with the greatest hits. Especially during peak season, the ancient capital can become crowded, so touring with a local who knows the ebb and flow of tourists and how to avoid them is key. Contact Indagare's Bookings Team to arrange a half-day tour.

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Ancient Capital Polonnaruwa

Sri Lanka's second ancient capital (the Anuradhapura kingdom moved here after an attack from Indian forces) was the seat of the island's rulers from the eighth to the thirteenth century. Today, you can visit this archeological marvel’s monuments, temples and stupas, with exquisitely preserved details like carvings and moon stone plates. The definitive highlights are the massive Buddha sculptures of Gal Vihara. These rock relief sculptures of a seated, standing and lying Buddha (each measuring some fifteen feet) have been carved directly into a face of a granite rock and the details and serene expressions of these works of art are breathtaking.

Indagare Tip: While based in the Sigiriya area, the drive to Polonnaruwa takes about 2 hours. Depending on the season, a visit can be combined with a short safari in Minneriya National Park, but the timing has to be well thought-out.

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Dambulla Caves

This collection of caves, which dates back to the first century BC, is one of the best–preserved sites in the country. Set at an elevation of nearly 500 feet in the hilltops of central Sri Lanka, the five caves contain several temples, shrine rooms and statues. Many feature ancient carvings and murals, and all boast impressive views of the surrounding lands. Indagare members can contact the Bookings Team for assistance in booking a tour.

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Galle Fort

Located on Sri Lanka's southwestern coast, Galle Fort is famous for its well-preserved Dutch architecture, including elevated ramparts that frame the perimeter of the town, but this harbor's history goes back way further. As early as the 4th century AD, Galle was a port of call for Chinese, Persian, Arab and Indian traders, later followed by Portuguese, Dutch and British colonialists. (The Portuguese arrived here in 1505 by chance, having drifted off-course chasing a fleet of Arab ships in the Maldives.)

Today, it's a bustling little place with some nice restaurants, shops and hotels like Amangalla and Fort Bazaar. Touring the old fort, with its six bastions and incredible views of the Indian Ocean is a must, as is the small but excellent National Maritime Museum (don't expect state-of-the-art exhibits or air conditioning, but the artifacts on display are interesting).

Overall, Galle Fort is a good segue into Sri Lanka, as you get a taste for the island's lengthy history, filled with traders, colonizers and missionaries. You don't need more than one or two nights here, as sights are limited and the fort area is small and easy to see. In the early evening, head out for a walk around the ramparts where you will meet most everyone else from town. The large mosque near the old Dutch lighthouse calls to prayer (Galle Fort is primarily Muslim today); families are out in full force; and the sun sets into the slate-colored sea, making for a festive atmosphere. Afterwards, drinks at the Amangalla are a must, even if you're not staying there, and dinner at Fort Bazaar's Church Street Social is recommended.

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Handunugoda White Tea Estate

This 200-acre estate on Sri Lanka's southern coast is a great stop for tea lovers and anyone whose itinerary doesn't include the Hill/Tea Country. Handunugoda doesn’t produce massive quantities, but its intimate size makes for a more personal learning experience. The estate and the factory still use equipment brought in by the British some 140 years ago, and besides tea, the estate also grows rubber, cinnamon and coconut.

Break for a cup of Ceylon black tea at the historic planter's bungalow and sample some of the property's famous Virgin White Tea. This expensive product, untouched by human hands, is cut with small scissors, a complicated and lengthy way of harvesting that hails from the days of the Chinese Emperor (back then, the pickers were virgins, an eccentricity that has thankfully not held over). The small shop at the end of the tour is a good spot for picking up some made-in-Ceylon tea gifts.

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Mirissa Whale Watching

The little secret no one tells you is that Sri Lanka's built-up southern coast doesn't really have any great beaches. Plus, the surf down here is wild and most coves are narrow especially during high tide. The great exception is Mirissa Beach, a glorious stretch of soft white sand. However, manage your expectations of headed there: there are no amenities (loungers, beach service). and the shoreline is lined with restaurants, bars and backpacker lodging.

Mirissa is also the place for whale-watching during the blue whale season (sightings are most expected between December and April), and there are many local operators who offer excursions. A word of warning, though: the cruises tend to be very long and due to a lack of regulation, you will encounter lots of boats if a whale is sighted. Boats are quite small and many of the operators try to get as close to the animals as they can, which may be disturbing to animal lovers. If you have your heart set on seeing blue whales in the wild, then choose a reputable outfitter (Mirissa Water Sports is recommended) and plan on spending most of the day on the boat. (Pack Dramamine as seas can be rough during the prime season.)

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Mulkirigala Rock Temple

Not as famous as the Dambulla Caves further north in the Cultural Triangle, Mulkirigala still makes an excellent stop if you're touring along the southern coast. The temple hails from the 3rd century AD and is reached via a climb up 500-plus steps and past several viharas (rock dwellings for Buddhist monks), all beautifully decorated with wall paintings from the days of the Kandy kingdoms. From the top, 673 feet above sea level, are terrific views; and unlike the Dambulla Caves, which are eternally mobbed, you'll be hard-pressed to meet many more tourists at Mulkirigala. From Amanwella and the Anantara, Mulkirigalla is about a 30-minute drive.

Indagare Tip: Remember to wear clothing that covers your knees and shoulders and never to take photos with your back to the Buddha: Mulkirigala has seven large-size statues of the Lord Buddha.

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Royal Botanic Garden

Some people mistakenly assume that this sprawling botanical garden is actually located about 15 minutes south of the city center, but in Kandy rush-hour traffic, the trip here can take much longer, so plan accordingly. The 150-acre garden was originally conceived as the queen’s pleasure garden during the reign of Kandyan King Wickramabahu III, and then was turned into the Royal Botanic Gardens by the British in the mid-19th century. Today, it serves as a popular escape into greenery for Kandy locals, including students from the nearby Kandy University. Especially the bamboo grove and the three long coconut alleys should not be missed; New Yorkers will be amused to find a “great lawn” here as well.

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Sigiriya Rock Fortress

This nearly 700-foot-tall rock column is one of the country’s most iconic and visited sites. The incredible fortress that sat in staggering heights at the very top of the rock was conceived by the illegitimate King Kasyapa in the mid fifth century A.D. Having killed his father for the crown, the paranoid king considered himself safe from attack while ruling from this perch; however, Sigiriya took nearly fourteen years to be completed and he ruled for only four before he committed suicide.

Today, climbing to the remnants of his awesome fortress requires some stamina and a lack of vertigo. (Sigiriya should be visited first thing in the morning in order to avoid heat and also the crowds.) The path begins in beautiful gardens, then turns into stairs that lead through a shaded forest. The higher you climb, the sunnier the setting, until your final ascent traverses a metal staircase attached to the exposed rockface. King Kasyapa had ordered an enormous lion carved into the rock (visitors would climb through the inside of this structure and emerge at the top disoriented by the sunlight). Today only two massive paws frame the entrance.

Another highlight not to miss here are beautifully preserved frescos of the king's harem that decorate one of the caves. Thanks to the fact that they were protected by a cave and that Sigiriya lay abandoned until the 19th century, this group of idealized beauties remains incredibly vivid (they have been likened to the Ajanta caves in India). The top of Sigiriya affords incredible views.

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Tea Experience

All clients staying at Tea Trails will partake in the complimentary Tea Experience, hosted at the 150-plus-year-old Dunkeld Tea Factory. (From the Norwood Bungalow, it's about a 30-minute drive to get there.) A few things to know: the regularly scheduled tours include several other guests staying at Tea Trails; private tours have to be arranged in advance. The tour takes about two hours, so especially if you're traveling with children, it might be worth asking for a private tour that can be a bit abbreviated. At times, the experience feels a bit orchestrated (the Tamil picker working in a tiny tea patch near the factory is nothing but an awkward photo op), but you do learn a lot about growing, picking and processing tea. Travelers interested in a slightly less flashy tea tour should plan on visiting Handunugoda White Tea Estate on the southern coast.

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Temple of the Tooth

Located in Kandy, this temple is famous for its shrine containing Buddha’s tooth (according to legend, the tooth was removed from Buddha’s body following his death and is said to bestow divine power on those who possess it). The temple, which features traditional Kandyan architecture and ancient stone carvings, is part of a complex of buildings that also includes the royal palace and archeological museum. Tours of the site are offered daily, and visitors can attend Tevava rituals (performed in the morning, noon and evening) as part of traditional Buddhist worship. Indagare members can contact the Bookings Team for assistance in booking a tour.

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