Malliouhana

Thirty years after Malliouhana became the standard-bearer for luxury in the Caribbean, it emerged in 2014 from a massive renovation as an Auberge Resort, with a new relaxed sophistication, updated design and major (and welcome) restaurant reboot.

The designers of the long-overdue 2014 renovation of this Caribbean classic brought it into the present by knocking down walls to let in more sunlight and creating a sunny color palette of saffron and celadon blue. The 44 guest rooms and suites with a quirky mix of British colonial, Chinoiserie, Deco and contemporary pieces like massive, rococo mirrors that conceal televisions (if only the technology lived up to the design). They didn’t change Malliouhana’s best feature, though: its jaw-dropping views of the Caribbean down below at nearly every turn.

Most controversial among old-timers will be the decision to remove the beachfront villas. The views are better from the bluff where the main house and remaining rooms are situated, but the trade-off is that reaching the three beaches now requires a walk. Consolation for losing easy beach access: the stylish new two-tiered infinity pool, with one level for adults and another for families. The spa was similarly moved from its too-big beachfront location to a more intimate site in the forest—a welcome improvement.

An even bigger improvement took place in the restaurant, where the old-fashioned French fare, celebrated, starred and delicious as it was, felt increasingly out of step with travelers’ tastes today. Now in the kitchen is chef Cupertino Ortiz, who focuses on fresh, sea-to-table classics with a contemporary twist.

Couples and families who enjoy boutique hotels with fantastic ocean views and relaxed nightlife. Guests with mobility issues or who want direct access to the sand are better off at Cap Juluca**,** where all the rooms are beachfront. Visitors who prefer a nightclub vibe or the facilities (spa, gym, and kid’s club) of a larger hotel should check out the Four Seasons Anguilla.