In the 17th and 18th century, St. John grew rich through its sugar plantations, which depended on slave labor. The arduous work including clear-cutting the steep hillsides, terracing the soil, then planting and harvesting the sugarcane. Annaberg was the last working plantation, and today the stone ruins make a very evocative visit—a must. To tour them, you take a short walk up a hill and wander around (about twenty to thirty minutes). You can see the well-preserved mill where the cane stalks were crushed with the aid of horses, and the giant vat where the juice was boiled. The hilltop location, near Trunk Bay, offers fabulous views of Tortola and neighboring islands. Sometimes you can even see sea turtles from the lookout.

Plan a day trip to Buck Island, off of St. Croix. We sailed over in the morning on a catamaran, stopped at a deserted white sand beach for a swim, then spent an hour snorkeling along an underwater trail, through extraordinary coral canyons. Favorite spottings included schools of blue angelfish glinting in the sunlight, a stingray below me looking a lot like Darth Vader and three barracudas gliding by.

One of my most memorable experiences was swimming with two sea lions at the aquarium Coral World, on St. Thomas. I found marvelous exhibits and a fantastic staff dedicated to conservation.

Trunk Bay: This is the most famous beach on St. John, and deservedly so: a wide stretch of white sand and azure waters that is simply stunning. It’s also prized for its underwater snorkeling trail. (You can rent gear on the beach.) The beach is equipped with a snack bar, restrooms and a lifeguard. Unfortunately, the secret is out and it’s quite a popular tourist destination, so it’s best to go at off hours. Check the cruise ship schedule, which you can find online, to avoid high traffic: www.vinow.com

Maho Bay: Local families love Maho Bay for kids: the surf is gentle, the swimming good and the beach quite long. Best of all for those with toddlers, you can park on Northshore Road about ten feet from the sand. Parking is limited, so get there early.

Caneel Bay: Caneel Bay resort has seven beautiful beaches, including Scott (where you might spot stingrays and starfish), Hawksnest, Honeymoon and Turtle Bay. Keep your eye out for Hawksbill turtles. The resort’s main beach is open to the public and has a good restaurant for lunch. Plan to spend an afternoon here if renting a villa on the island.

Cinnamon Bay: While not quite as beautiful as Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay has lots of toys available for rent: windsurfers, kayaks and Hobie Cats, as well as beach chairs. You may spot donkeys wandering around near the campgrounds.