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Antonio Bernardo
A pioneer of the revolution in jewelry design that brought Brazilian style out of the heavy, fake-colonial pieces, Bernardo creates delicate designs in silver and gold that have set the standard for modern elegance for three decades.
Aquim [Boutique Q]
Carioca Samantha Aquim is Rio’s best chocolatier. After extensive research of the cocoa bean an numerous travels to Bahia cocoa farms, she has established partnerships with the best cacao producers (and has influenced their way of producing it too), to make the best local chocolate possible – probably ranging among the best in the world. Closed Sunday.
Arnaldo Danemberg Antiquário
Beloved by Brazilian architects, Danemberg’s store in the traditional Chopin building (next door to Copacabana Palace) is the source for classic pieces and quality antiques, specially wooden pieces (many carefully restored). I specially love the vintage trunks.
Atelier Schiper
Brazilian sisters Aline and Alessandra Schiper draw inspiration from native flowers, birds and insects. Top sellers are their multicolored rings, featuring local gemstones.
Blue Man
A popular bathing-suit boutique with extravagant prints and perfect cuts.
CADEG
The Municipal Market of Rio is all business, busy and filled with a wide variety of flowers, fruits, vegetables and cooking equipment. The action peaks between 2 a.m. and 9 a.m., when virtual forests of tropical foliage are moved from trucks to the waiting stands (where the flowers are sold at cut-rate prices). But CADEG is also loaded with very good restaurants, such as Barsa (Rua Capitão Félix, 110, rua 4, lojas 4 e 6,55 (21) 2585-3743), a casual and cool place serving great lamb and codfish. Open from 1 a.m. to mid-afternoon, Monday through Saturday, and until 2 p.m. on Sundays and holidays. Most stalls close by lunch time.
Casa Carandaí
A fine deli and grocery store in a nice atmosphere, with wooden shelves filled with Brazilian and international delicacies. Closed Sunday.
Casa das Meninas
This delightful house in the Jardim Botânico, an insider’s secret, is where many fashionable society ladies shop.
Dona Coisa
A small atelier in Jardim Botânico with limited collections by new and interesting designers.
Farm
This colorful funky beachwear company epitomizes Rio’s vibrant, groovy style. It is ideal for young, flamboyant women. Think palazzo pants in tropical patterns and crocheted boleros and Adidas track suits in tropical patterns.
Fashion Mall
One of the most sophisticated and nicest malls in Rio, Fashion Mall in São Conrado is the best option for buying Brazilian bathing suits: Rosa Chá, Lenny and Salinas are all here. Other brands include sophisticated Bo.Bô and Cris Barros (top fashion), luxury department store Daslu, funky Farm and charming Le Lis Blanc. For gifts, head for Granado – beautiful bath and beauty products. Children will love the Happy Kids playroom. There are also a number of restaurants (for Argentinian meat, choose Pobre Juan, or CT Brasserie for more eclectic fare). The mall is bathed in natural light and filled with internal gardens. Open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Sundays and holidays 3 p.m.–9 p.m.
Feira Hippie de Ipanema
Back in the late ’60s, there were hippies selling their handcrafts at Ipanema’s Praça General Osório. The hippies may be gone, but the open-air market remains: every Sunday, from 8 a.m. to sundown, Feira Hippie de Ipanema attracts cariocas and visitors with a fun, vibrant mix of arts, crafts, jewelry, musical instruments, pottery, clothes and toys. Hidden in the touristy chaos are some terrific finds in jewelry, leather and pottery. Bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of time for browsing and haggling (most vendors speak some English). Indagare Tip: Next door is café and shop Amazonia Soul.
Feira Nordestina
This is where locals go for authentic Brazilian heartland cuisine, plus arts and crafts. The fifty-five-year-old institution started as an informal gathering place of migrants from the arid northeastern states who traveled south in search of work. Made official by the city in the late ’90s, this huge open-air market is a fantastic sample of rootsy Brazilian food, music and arts and crafts. Open Tuesday–Thursday 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Saturday all day and night and Sunday till 10 p.m.
Tip: Try to go during the week, as on weekends the place can get pretty hectic.
Feira Orgânica do Jardim Botânico
This market which takes place on Saturday mornings is part of the Organic market circuit and has booths of local producers (Maniwa's has great tapioca and spicy pepper!). Next to Sao Jose Church in the Lagoa district.
Feira Rio Antigo
On the first Saturday of every month, the traditional antiquarians of Lavradio Street in downtown Rio open their doors and invite guest vendors from all over town to an event called Feira Rio Antigo. Everything from 18th-century mirrors to Portuguese silverware and Bohemian crystal can be found, but just taking in the street’s colonial architecture is a treat. Open 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Francesca Romana
Romana’s stylish designs have made her an international celebrity. Using magnificent Brazilian gems in small settings, she creates high-style modern pieces in silver, gold, platinum and vermeil; her bold chunky styles are also sought after. (And her jewelry costs considerably less here than it does on Madison Avenue.) There are also branches in Fashion Mall and Design Barra Shopping.
Galeria River
Surf/skate shops sit side by side with boutiques featuring Brazil’s hot new designers at this semi-hidden mall. Stop to grab a bite in new Hare Burger (55 (21) 3518 4968), a veggie burger and healthy snacks joint, beloved by beach boys.
Granado
This brand of bath and beauty products has reinvented itself in the last years, keeping the traditional looks (the stores look like 19th century pharmacies) and good prices but investing in technology for products and packages. The soaps and creams in their retro-looking packages make wonderful gifts.
Havaianas
You can find this typical Brazilian flip flops all over Rio. They are such a staple that many newsstands and grocery shops have racks of them on display. However, the ultimate temple is the flagship Ipanema shop, which has the greatest variety and some models available only here.
Lenny
The most luxurious and stylish—and expensive—one- and two-piece bathing suits can be found here. Another outpost is in the Shopping Da Gávea mall (55 (21) 2529-3251.
Livraria da Travessa
A temple to books, Livraria da Travessa has Rio’s best offering of English-language volumes.
Mucki Skowrosnki
Artist Skowrosnki displays her beautiful fabrics and assorted gifts and housewares at a couple of very colorful shops—ideal for kids.
O Sol
O Sol sells handmade pieces by craftspeople from all over Brazil; the stock can change from week to week, but usually there’s some good pottery available.
Osklen
The company, which has stores in Rome and New York, among other international locations, is the epitome of Brazilian eco-luxury clothes for men and women. Dramatic designs and prints with Brazilian flair are the mains aspects of designer Oskar Metsavaht’s creations. Prices are steep.
Parceria Carioca
This little shop showcases a unique assortment of pieces by Brazilian designers and handmade items by artisans from local co-ops. It’s one of my favorites, and the ideal place to pick up that hard-to-find gift: embroidered T-shirts, amazing purses, pretty custom jewelry and unusual housewares. There is another location at ua Visconde de Pirajá 215.
Peach
Constança Basto’s shoe shop stocks serious high-style heels.
Reserva
Laid back and sophisticated at the same time, Reserva carries breezy fashion that is adored by Brazilians all around the country.