More than any other kind of animal, the Galápagos belongs to seabirds. They’re everywhere, and you’ll see them on just about every island. But Espanola is uniquely suited to providing a place to see one of the rarest seabirds on the islands—the waved albatross.

One of the largest birds in the world, the critically endangered waved albatross nests on Espanola Island in the winter months, raising its chicks (there is only one other place in the world where the bird nests, a tiny island off the coast of Peru). Because the albatross’ wings are so large, it cannot take off or land as easily as other sea birds. As such, it can often be found on a makeshift “runway,” gaining ground speed before taking off or even coming in for a crash landing.

Hidden in a mangrove forest, Black Turtle Cove is so named because it’s dark water is a breeding ground for turtles. In fact, many aquatic species come to this calm lagoon to have their babies, and a “panga” (RIB) ride through its waters feels a bit like being a giant. Miniature versions of the Galapagos’ animals, from bite-sized hammerhead sharks to minnow-like schools of rays, scoot about below you in the peaceful waters.

This archaeological museum is set in a former private home in Old Town Quito. The building has been beautifully renovated but its layout remains, offering a rare glimpse into what traditional homes used to look like. Rather than displaying artifacts chronologically, the curators have chosen to group them by theme, use and mediums, allowing for a more in-depth study. Don’t miss the flourishing fig tree that grows in a tiny inner courtyard. The museum has an excellent gift shop.

Ecuador's cloud forest in the northwest of the country exists because warm ocean water (and with it, warm air) flows from Asia and hits the Central American isthmus. This current of humidity then moves south, creating the wet, hot atmosphere of the Amazon rainforest. To complicate matters, the Andes mountain range creates a wall to the west of the Amazon. Further to the west, on the other side of the mountain range, the Andean foothills receive residual precipitation and have steep elevations. Cold currents moving north from Antarctica meet with all this madness and results in a distinct climate.

The vast majority of the Galápagos Islands are restricted national park lands, so while tortoise populations have begun to recover to pre-discovery levels, you won’t get to see the animals very often. Most likely, your tortoise experience will take place at the El Chato Tortoise Reserve in the highlands of Santa Cruz. The reserve is a large jungle compound where tortoises congregate to mate.

It’s difficult to see them at first, but once you’ve spotted one of the boulder-like animals, you’ll come to find them in numbers so massive it’s a wonder they were ever endangered. Tortoises gather in clusters of four to five, with additional groups located every 50 to 100 feet. They’re tame enough, and they still have the reflex to withdraw into their shells at the sight of danger. Sitting on the ground next to one of these animals as it gradually come out of its shell will be a highlight of any trip.

Off the beaten path in the city’s northern area, this museum occupies the former home of celebrated contemporary artist Oswaldo Guayasamin. The selection features Guayasamin’s work, most of which focuses on Latin American life and class struggle, as well as the extensive collection of pre-Colombian artifacts the artist collected during his life, offering a fascinating picture into Ecuador’s pre-colonial past.

This Jesuit church is considered to be one of South America’s most beautiful, thanks to its green- and gold-tiled domes. With special permission (contact Indagare for an introduction) visitors can climb to the roof and enjoy views of the nearby Plaza San Francisco and all of Old Town Quito.

Much of the Galápagos islands formed due to volcanic activity, so it’s easy to mistake these giant sinkholes for volcanic caldera. However, they were actually created by the catastrophic collapse of lava tubes deep underneath the surface. The jungle has reclaimed these craters, and the brief walk through a giant sunflower forest in the rainy highlands of Santa Cruz makes for a beautiful afternoon in a location far different from anywhere else on the islands.

This museum tells the fascinating story of Manuela Saenz, Simon Bolivar’s mistress. Born out of wedlock to an aristocratic British father, Manuela later divorced her wealthy Anglo husband to join the revolution. Shortly after she met Bolivar, she allegedly stopped one assassination attempt against him and saved his life at least three times. Saenz received the Order of the Sun for her role in the revolution (which includes fighting in the Battle of Pichincha), but when Bolivar died her political enemies drove her exile. For the next 25 years she lived in the Peruvian town of Paita, where she sold tobacco and translated love letters for American whalers until she died destitute at age 58. The museum’s three floors tell the forgotten story of one of Latin America’s foremost liberators, and also display the love letters Saenz and Bolivar sent one another.

Housed in an old mansion in Quito’s Old Town, this museum provides a window into the city’s rich colonial past. Paintings date from the 16^th century and a variety of ornate furnishings are on display. Non-Spanish speakers should plan on hiring one of the museum’s informative guides–none of the information on the collection is written in English.

Ecuador’s oldest church, founded in the 1500s, anchors this magnificent square in the center of Quito’s Old Town. The Catholic complex extends over 8 acres and includes the San Francisco cathedral, monastery and numerous chapels. The hotel Casa Gangotena is located directly on the square.