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Amano Museum
Colección Enrico Poli
The most controversial museum in the city, the Colección Poli is a private museum of incredible pre-Columbian artifacts and colonial treasures, including furniture, paintings and jewelry. The son of the original collector greets you at the town house gates, which he locks behind you, and guides the tours himself. An imposing and rather creepy character, he might have stepped out of a Dan Brown novel. The priceless religious items are fascinating (one room is filled with gold jewelry, crowns and statuary the equal of those in royal troves), but you have to endure Señor Poli’s questionable interpretation of history and the supremacy of colonialists. Question his version, and he’ll launch into a passionate defense. Many in Peru allege that the Poli treasures were stolen from churches and sacred sites and should be returned. For now, though, the only way to see them is at Señor Poli’s house and in his company. By appointment only. Tours are offered at 10 A.M. and 4 P.M., depending on demand, and last about an hour and half.
Beware: Señor Poli does not take kindly to those who ask to leave midway through.
Huaca Pucllana Ruins
Indagare Tour: Cooking Classes
Indagare Tours: Casa Aliaga
MATE Asociacion Mario Testino
World famous fashion photographer Mario Testino set up this collection to pay homage to the artists of his native country. Set in a lovely colonial house in the Barranco district, the MATE Asociacion also contains works by its founder.
Museo Larco
If you have time to visit only one museum in Lima, it should be this. Founded by Rafael Larco Hoyle, a wealthy Peruvian with an interest in archaeology, it contains more than 45,000 pottery vessels, textiles and gold and silver objects. Over the course of several decades, Larco bought others’ collections in addition to undertaking his own archaeological excavations, in which he enlisted the help of his wife and extended family. The museum that houses his collection is modern but incorporates many splendid colonial columns, doors and decorative details from the house of the Marqueses de Herrera y Villahermosa in Trujillo.
Museo Pedro de Osma
Museum of Gold
These treasures, all donated by one Peruvian collector, are well organized and also include an arms collection. The English audio tour, which is included in the price of entry, is well worth using.
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