Suite at Hotel du Palais Biarritz, Biarritz & Pays Basque, France

Hotel du Palais Biarritz

Sitting regally on a hillside overlooking Biarritz's curved Grande Plage, the rust-colored Hotel du Palais is the central heart and soul of the seaside resort.  From above, it's shaped like the letter E, which romantics can interpret to mean "Eugenie," Napoleon III's adored wife who inspired their summers in Biarritz (she was an early proponent of Thalasso-therapy). Cynics, meanwhile, will recognize the E (probably accurately) stands for emperor. Regardless, Napoleon and Eugenie's summer residence on the hill was built in 1855 and turned into a hotel in 1893 (twenty years after the self-proclaimed emperor died in British exile). Today, he and Eugenie still figure largely into the property's myths: large portraits of them hang in the beautiful dining room.

The hotel has 153 rooms and due to the building's protected architecture, every single one is unique in terms of layout. The best options are located on the first, second and third floors thanks to high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, most of which have terrific views across the coastline. All the guest rooms have been renovated within the last three years, with handcrafted fabrics, an understated color scheme and painted accents on the walls. They are very comfortable and even the smaller category rooms are sizeable. If freestanding tubs or large showers are important, make sure to mention this at the time of reserving a room. Due to the unique layout of the rooms, some bathrooms are better than others.

The saltwater pool outside abuts a casual poolside restaurant and is lined with small cabanas, but the real draw here is the deck, high above the Grande Plage, with lines of loungers. (During high season, it pays to come early to get first-row places.) There are no loungers on the public beach, accessed by a large black iron portal right beneath the pool area, so most clients of the Palais just walk down to the beach for a quick dip, then return to their lofty perch. Kids have their own pool and play area on a large lawn, which is a nice touch for parents and other guests alike.

The massive, three-floor spa is frequented by Biarritz regulars. The large indoor pool has a big skylight above, a nice touch, and the relaxation area comes complete with a bar — you are, after all, in France, so a glass of bubbly post treatment is certainly not unheard of.

There are countless truly old-world touches at the Palais: the heavy keys with velvet-fringe key chains that have to be left at the concierge desk; the extravagant dining room where jackets are required for dinner. And yet, the ambience at the Palais doesn’t feel stuffy or pretentious thanks to the lovely staff and the fact that this building has been part of Biarritz local life since inception.

Many Biarritz residents come here for special occasion meals and they feel incredibly invested in the future of the property. When a small spiral staircase was supposed to lead from a suite to a rooftop terrace area, the Palais received so many concerned calls from locals that they eventually cancelled the project. Nothing has changed about the exterior of the building —but the inside keeps being reinvented and polished by a dedicated team who are making sure that the Palais transitions into the now and into the future.

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Regina Experimental Biarritz

Unveiled in July 2023, the hotel Regina Experimental is another contemporary game-changer for the Basque region. It's one of the latest creations from the cool-kid Experimental Group, which was founded by three childhood friends and has launched successful cocktail and wine bars, restaurants and hotels in Paris, New York, London, Ibiza, Menorca, Venice and Verbier (you may know them from Paris' Le Grand Pigalle or Indagare staff favorite, La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in Soho). The Regina Experimental presents a fresh take on a Biarritz beach getaway, within an imposing, Neo-Basque structure dating back to 1907. Originally built as a hotel, the building survived both world wars—during the first, it served as a hospital; during the second, it was captured by the Germans and badly burned. It was rebuilt as a hotel and passed through various hands before being acquired by the Experimental Group, who invested in an eight-month restoration. Today, the soaring atrium, with its Eiffel glass roof and Art-Deco accents, revives the original Belle Époque glamour.

Central to the property's appeal—in stark contrast to Biarritz' resident grand-dame, Hotel du Palais—are the perfectly playful interiors by Dorothée Meilichzon, who employs brightly patterned prints, custom-built pieces (like geometric headboards and oversized mirrors) and a balanced blend of retro-maritime and contemporary objets to create a feast for the eyes (particularly memorable are the clamshell lamps and the red-striped sailor chairs). The 72 rooms and suites are vibrant and cheerful, maximizing the light and sea or golf course views.

All of the rooms open into the atrium—where ample seating spaces welcome lounging and socializing. They are anchored by a piano and high-top bar serving Roaring Twenties-inspired creations. An elevated restaurant by the group's favorite chef, Gregory Marchand, flows from the lobby into a red-striped space that is just beachy enough, and it spills out onto the pool club terrace. The overall result is a communal atmosphere that's ideal for travelers seeking equal parts nostalgia and energy, without sacrificing sophistication. There is also a small on-property spa and hammam, using Susanne Kaufmann and Alaena products, and the boutique is a must-visit for on-point Biarritz looks and gifts.

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