Beautiful Landscape at Arromanches, Normandy, France

Arromanches

A few miles north of Bayeux sits the once-sleepy seaside town of Arromanches that became a base for the Allied Force’s British units virtually overnight. There are two museums describing this time and stunning views of what’s left of Churchill’s amazing feat of engineering at Sword Beach. Ask a local or concierge about tide times so you can be sure to see the remains of Mulberry Harbor, as it is also known when the water is low.

The first of two great spots to take in the view is just outside of the Musée du Débarquement, which provides a survey of the remains of the pre-fabricated harbor. Depending on the weather, the area can be either bathed in sunlight or spotted with the clouds of a coming storm, a beautiful setting for locals to walk their dogs. Stand outside of the 360 Museum to see a sweeping vista including the surrounding dramatic cliffs, farmland and countryside, the beautiful chateaus on the hill below and the little town leading into the harbor.

Arromanches-les-Bains 360 Museum

Inside nine buildings atop a hill overlooking Arromanches sits a circular theater with nine high definition movie screens. Visitors stand in the middle of the room and for 19 minutes are bombarded with the sounds and images of the 100-day long battle of Normandy. The name of the museum refers to both the 360-degree experience within the theater and to the fact that the footage came from every country involved in the Battle of Normandy, Germany included. The film is not narrated; instead the dramatic, sometimes startling sounds of battle and recordings of Hitler, President Eisenhower and other leaders do the talking. Seeing the presentation of these images this way gives an entirely new meaning to the photographs of troops landing at D-Day, and many of the other familiar images associated with WWII. The effect of this approach is powerful, to say the least, but potentially disturbing as well; it is not recommended for young children.

Bayeux Notre Dame - Normandy, France

Bayeux Notre-Dame Cathedral

Bayeux boasts a grand cathedral for such a small city thanks to the Bishop of Bayeux, William the Conqueror’s brother, who had the budget and permission to put this town on the map. The cathedral sits in the heart of the city and feels a bit like a smaller version of Paris's Notre Dame. Visit in the early afternoon on a sunny day to see colorful shadows from the stained glass windows cast on the stone floor. The crypt underground is haunting and beautiful. As you approach the cathedral with your back to MAHB, look for the little school house that is precariously perched on the edge of one of the towers thousands of feet in the air.

Exterior View-Caen ,Normandy, France

Caen

As home to one of France’s oldest universities, the poet François de Malherbe and the resting place of William the Conqueror, Caen is a Norman city with strong, fascinating roots. Its location relative to Paris and to many of the must-see sights in this part of Normandy makes it a great base for visitors. Seeing Caen’s historical buildings and churches, some dating back to the 14th century, makes their destruction in the 1944 Allied bombings all the more tragic. At the same time, however, it highlights the incredible sense of integration and continuity that ruled the reconstruction of Caen after the conclusion of WWII.

Exterior View - Caen Normandy Memorial Center for History and Peace,Normandy, France

Caen Normandy Memorial Center for History and Peace

The scope and breadth covered in this museum's permanent display, which explains the causes of WWII, are extremely thorough. The walk-through timeline includes first-hand interviews with survivors, newspaper clippings and other primary source materials that provide a thoughtful overview, some context and a good primer for visits to the nearby landing beaches and memorials.

Chateau de Caen/Ducal Castle

Built by William the Conqueror and favored by Norman dukes and British kings, this castle is one of the largest walled fortifications in Europe. After the 1944 bombings, the town restored the structure’s remains, which now boast ramparts with great views of the city, the Museum of Normandy and the Museum of Fine Arts.

Exterior View - Church of St. Etienne,Normandy, France

 - courtesy Emilie Ursule

Church of St. Etienne

The Church of St. Etienne is the official burial place of William the Conquer and the stone commemorating his life is almost as centrally placed as the altar. The photographic archive’s black and white images displayed on the cathedral's walls are also fascinating. The images give an idea of what life was like for hundreds of families residing in Caen during WWII, when they were warned at the last minute (for fear the Germans would catch wind of the plans) that the Allied forces would be bombing the area. Hundreds of locals sought shelter in the church and cloister behind the building that was the Men’s Abbey and is now the Caen City Hall. Stroll through the cloister behind the church on your way out.

Childrain at Cooking Classes at Stephane Carbone,Normandy, France

Cooking Classes at Stephane Carbone

After eating at Stephane Carbone’s restaurant, it might seem unlikely that an amateur's creations could even come close to his, but one of the restaurant's cooking classes is a chance to learn from the supremely talented chef. Weekly classes are offered on themes such as fois gras, meat, fish, macaroons, and wine pairing.

Day Trip: Calvados & Camembert

Normandy’s traditional apple-based brandy, Calvados, is one of the region's major products and remains an integral part of the Norman culture and cuisine. A great Calvados-oriented tradition is a Canard, (the French word for 'goose'). When there’s a bit left at the bottom of a post-meal coffee, the Normans will pour in a splash of Calvados to “catch” the last sip (and put a pep in their step for afternoon hunting expeditions).

Exterior View - Day Trip: Deauville,Normandy, France

Day Trip: Deauville

If Normandy is the New England of France, Deauville is the Hamptons, just a little over two hours from the city by car. As a bonus, aside from Paris, Deauville is the only city in France where the big name shops are open seven days a week. The town boasts a gigantic racetrack with a polo field in the center and an epic golf course in the hills where wealthy residents have sprawling villas.

There is a small window of summer when Deauville’s beach, famously dotted with colorful umbrellas and casual chic restaurants, is swimmable. But stroll along the French ‘Sunset Boulevard,’ any time and understand why this town, the host of the annual American Film Festival, is so beloved. Start at the beach entrance closest to the convention center and proceed along the boardwalk, keeping the ocean on the right. As far as the eye can see, is an endless row of wooden cabanas, each with the name of an American movie star painted on its railing. Above each cabana are vintage photographs with glamorous movie stars and Parisian elite basking in Deauville’s glory.

Aerial View - Musée Maison de Claude Monet,Normandy, France

Day Trip: Giverny

This village between Paris and Rouen revolves around Claude Monet and his home, the Musée Maison de Claude Monet and the Giverny Impressionism Museum.

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Exterior View - Day Trip: Rouen,Normandy, France

Day Trip: Rouen

As the capital of Normandy, the self-proclaimed birthplace of Impressionism and the one-time home of so many iconic individuals, Rouen is a beacon of culture. Before reconstruction, city life revolved around the waterfront of the river Seine. Today the city is struggling to reclaim its former nautical identity, competing with the country’s capital up the river, but nevertheless it has a real allure.

As you wander through narrow streets lined with chain stores and fast food restaurants set in 12th century buildings, don’t miss yet another architectural collage of Rouen’s past, the Great Clock. Climb the Gothic belfry, housing the oldest clock parts in Europe, supported by a Renaissance archway and enter the pavilion, former home to the ‘clock governor.’

Day Trip: Sainte Mère Eglise

Visiting the sleepy town center of Sainte Mère Eglise, where American paratrooper John Steele’s parachute caught on the central church’s spire, can feel a bit random. As you squint up at the dummy soldier whose parachute still clings to the church, you might feel puzzled about why you came in the first place. But after visiting the Airborne Museum, you’ll start to understand the inextricable bond between this town and its past as the setting for the nightmare that unfolded the night before the D-day landing. Sainte Mère Eglise is also a great place to stop for a bite and stretch on the long drive down to Mont St. Michel.

Deauville Golf

While the accommodations at the Hotel du Golf Barriere are not ideal, the 27-hole course is open year-round (www.golf-barriere-deauville.com). There is a driving range, putting greens and golf carts equipped with GPS. Other clubs to check out include Golf Barrière Saint Julien (www.golf-barriere-deauville.com), the Amirauté Golf Club (www.amiraute.com), which features artistic sculptures throughout the course and Golf de Deauville Saint-Gatien (www.golfdeauville.com).

Distillerie Périgault

Monsieur Périgault, who claims he is retired, and his son, produce high quality artisanal Calvados at their family distillery in Pays d’Auge, a region recognized for the exceptional quality of their cider apples. Mr. Périgault senior, an incredibly sweet man with no confidence in his English, will happily give you an in-depth tour of his distillery. The machine that distills the alcohol is a sight to behold. Set up a tasting and bring home a bottle of this impressive palate-cleansing digestive for your next dinner party.

Landing Beaches at Normandy, France

Explore the Landing Beaches & WWII Sites (Port-En-Bessin, Colleville-sur-Mer, Pont du Hoc)

Normandy’s past resonates with French and visitors alike and its role as the backdrop for a major turning point in World War II makes it extremely significant historically. Visiting every WWII related site in a single day would be impossible, but it would also miss the point. Reviewing the battles' sequence of events before arriving helps to determine the order and priority in which to visit each place. Places commemorating the D-Day landings can be emotional; finding a balance between the tragedy and the glory is important.

Chease at Fromagerie Durand,Normandy, France

Fromagerie Durand

Based in Camembert, the village where Marie Harel is said to have created the first wheel of the delectable creamy cheese, the Fromagerie Durand opens its doors so curious (and hungry) visitors can see how Camembert is made.

Interior View - Giverny Impressionism Museum, Normandy, France

Giverny Impressionism Museum

The Impressionism Museum down the road from Musée Maison de Claude Monet features small rotating exhibits that explore and highlight the influence Impressionism has had on art. This resourceful and innovative approach makes for fascinating connections between various movements in art and culture and in particular, Monet’s impact. Admission to the museum is free on the first Sunday of each month.

Exterior View - Indagare Tours: Bayeux,Normandy, France

Indagare Tours: Bayeux

The small but grand city of Bayeux was the only one in the region spared from the 1944 Allied bombings, and thus has maintained a Medieval sort of fairy-tale charm. Navigation can be tricky, as the main street has four different names, but the babbling brook that winds through most of the town, as well as the grand cathedral looming helps to orient newcomers. Indagare members can contact our bookings team for assistance setting up an expert local tour guide.

Aerial View - Indagare Tours: The American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer,Normandy, France

Indagare Tours: The American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer

An emotionally overwhelming place, the cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer is where over 9,000 American soldiers’ graves overlook the D-Day landing site, Omaha Beach. One of the bloodiest battles of the war took place here following the botched American landing. Walk around the cemetery and then spend some time in the visitor’s center, where moving videos and artifacts are displayed. We highly recommend visiting this cemetery with a guide; Indagare members can contact our bookings team for help setting up an appointment.

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Aerial View - Landing Museum/Musee du Debarquement,Normandy, France

Landing Museum/Musee du Debarquement

One of the first tourism attractions focused on WWII in the area (established in 1958), the Landing Museum in Arromanches certainly shows its age, but the dated models and films are part of its charm. Moving models accompanied by narration from the museum’s proud director depict the story and creation of the pre-fabricated harbor created by the British Allied forces under Winston Churchill’s direction. This specific topic can be interesting from both an engineering and historical perspective, but might not appeal to everyone.

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Aerial View - Mont St. Michel,Normandy, France - Photo by Hans Hillewaert

Mont St. Michel

This majestic island named for the monastery perched at the settlement’s highest point seems separate from the rest of the world—and from this time completely. Rarely is there such a harmonious relationship between a man made structure and nature’s consistent ebbs, flows and changes. One of France’s most iconic sights and a UNESCO world heritage site, Mont St. Michel is about 247 acres in size and just 0.6 miles off of Normandy’s most southern coastline. The island’s proximity to the shore made it an important fortification in ancient times, and guaranteed access for pilgrims visiting from all around the world, who could arrive on foot during low tide. Pilgrims still journey to worship in the sacred monastery and abbey. Visitors come to experience a rare, physical representation of feudal society, with the religious structure at the top (closest to god), the Great halls, stores and housing for the wealthy below and homes for the fisherman and farmers outside the walls on the very bottom.

After parking your car in the lot, which is about 1.5 miles from the island, board the shuttle, which arrives at a spot about 450 yards from the entrance to Mont Saint-Michel. After passing through the Burgher’s Guardroom, now the tourism office, proceed through the Boulevard Gate, followed by a portcullis protecting the king’s gate. Stroll along the main street where all four of Mont Saint Michel’s museums can be found, along with souvenir shops and 15th and 16th homes, arriving at the grand staircase leading to the abbey. After exploring its interior, proceed down the ramparts and enjoy a breathtaking view over the bay. Depending on interest levels and time, stop at the small parish consecrated in the name of St. Pierre, the patron saint of fisherman.

Musée Airborne

Although a bit tired, the Airborne museum is run by a team with a contagious passion for capturing the artifacts, stories and memories still buried in attics and in flowerbeds of local homes. There are plans for a new, highly interactive and experiential wing of the museum that will engage the new, younger generation with less first-hand connection to WWII.

Musée d'Art et d'Histoire Baron Gérard (MAHB)

This Bayeux museum houses over 5,000 pieces of art and artifacts, including famed Bayeux porcelain and lace. Set in a former Episcopal Palace, the museum presents its collection in chronological order. Highlights include ancient frescos, a Gallo-Roman villa and the reconstructed apartments of Bishop Odo of Conteville, brother to William the Conqueror.

Exterior View - Musée Maison de Claude Monet,Normandy, France

Musée Maison de Claude Monet

Enter the maze of trickling water and beautiful flora to Monet’s ‘water garden,’ where he diverted a small stream to create a still bed of lilies, the subject of his iconic series. Monet meticulously planned the adjacent flower garden envisioning the outcome in terms of how a painting of it would be composed. Every square foot of space, bursting with color and life, seems to be the perfect picture, until you enter a space more beautiful than the former. You may be reluctant to leave the outdoors and enter the home in which Monet spent roughly half of his life, but this stirring replica sheds light on Monet’s inspirations and displays his interior décor aesthetic, far ahead of its time.

Aerial View - Notre-Dame Cathedral,Normandy, France - Courtesy of Giogio

Notre-Dame Cathedral

With the tallest spire in France, the Cathedral embodies the constantly evolving and rebuilding spirit of Rouen. Like the city, the cathedral is composed of layers; when construction began in the 12th century, the builders incorporated an 11th century Romanesque structure, which rested on a 4th century basilica.

Aerial View - Overlord Museum Omaha Beach,Normandy, France

Overlord Museum Omaha Beach

There’s been a lot of buzz about the Overlord Museum since it opened in 2013 as it is home to over 10,000 WWII artifacts, including 35 vehicles, tanks and cannons. As old-time jazz plays softly in the background, visitors stroll past mannequins exhibiting the gear used during the war. Overlord lacks the technological bells and whistles that some might expect from a modern museum, but the draw here is absorbing detailed information about the day-to-day life during the war and the sheer size and breadth of the collection.

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