Gaya

This edgy seafood house, on a fashionable street on the Left Bank, is the creation of top chef Pierre Gagnaire. The modern décor is a change from the restaurant’s former sea-shack look, and the menu’s been similarly revised, but if the locals were initially wary, they’ve been won over by such dishes as carpaccio of sea bass with sea snails and a clever Gagnaire-designed tartine (open sandwich) of tuna, poutargue (pressed tuna roe), braesola, proscuitto and fresh vegetables on brioche. Closed Sunday and Monday.