Lounge at Champagne & Oyster Bar, Amalfi Coast, Italy - Courtesy of Le Sirenuse

Champagne & Oyster Bar

With sweeping views across the sea, this chic and petite bar at the Sirenuse hotel draws a sophisticated crowd, some of whom emerge from the privacy of their yachts for an aperitif here. Many stay for dinner at La Sponda.

Sea Lounge at Conca del Sogno,  Amalfi Coast, Italy

Conca del Sogno

A short ride from Positano, this is the perfect place for a leisurely lunch while enjoying a day on the water. Conca del Sogno, only accessible by boat, serves crowd pleasing seaside classics. On a recent visit I ordered the homemade spaghetti (served to al dente perfection) with local zucchini sourced from a small village on the coast. It was, hands down, the best meal I had during my one week stay on Capri and Amalfi.

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Dinning Area at Il Pirata, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Il Pirata

Down the cliff from La Praia, this seaside restaurant attracts sunbathers who lounge on its bathing decks during the day. It is also fun for a casual evening out as they have live music and a bar built into the rocks. The menu offers classics like tomato and mozzarella and linguine with clams.

Aerial View - Il San Pietro Terrace, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Il San Pietro Terrace

The large and dramatic terrace at the Il San Pietro hotel is a must for sunset aperitifs. You can’t decide what’s more beautiful: the terrace’s colorful, majolica-tile benches, the lush gardens surrounding it or the stupendous views of the coast. Have another Aperol spritz or Bellini to take in the scene.

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Food on table overlooking the ocean at Il San Pietro’s Zass, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Il San Pietro’s Zass

The dining room of the Zass at the San Pietro is begging to be updated (it has an old-world feeling in the literal sense), but for pure romantic atmosphere, a table for two at the edge of the terrace can’t be beat. Diners are seated at intimate tables that seem to hover over the sea, and if you’re lucky, you’ll time the beginning of your meal with the sunset. Belgian chef Alois Vanlangenaeker (it’s easy to see why everyone calls him by his first name) has a Michelin star and oversees a lengthy menu of dishes that includes local specialties as well as international fare. Most memorable is the electrifying sunset, the smooth sea hundreds of feet below and the views of Positano illuminated by hundreds of lights. Reservations are recommended.

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Food at La Sponda, Amalfi Coast, Italy - Courtesy of Le Sirenuse

La Sponda

Every evening around dusk, one of the white-suited waiters at Le Sirenuse climbs on a small ladder to light the countless votives that are suspended from wrought-iron chandeliers shaped like branches. The candles illuminate the space—already lovely with potted lemon trees, a vaulted ceiling covered in green vines, and huge windows offering panoramic views of the bay—transforming it into the kind of magical backdrop that inspires impassioned declarations of amore.

There may not be an open terrace like at the San Pietro, but diners can have an aperitif at the Sirenuse’s Champagne & Oyster Bar first, and the candlelit wonderland of the dining room is truly one of the coast’s most unique settings. Be sure to ask for a table by the window. (If you fall in love with the wrought-iron chandeliers and centerpieces, you are in good company: the hotel received so many requests for them that they’re now sold at Emporio Sirenuse across the street.) Reservations are recommended.

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Dinning Area at La Tagliata, Amalfi Coast, Italy

La Tagliata

Come hungry to this local favorite, which is tucked high in the hills above Positano. The setting is rustic: wooden chairs, checkered tablecloths, and various potted plants and bunches of garlic hanging from the ceiling. Diners do not order à la carte; rather they sit, and out comes the food, which includes antipasta, a large selection of homemade pasta and copious amounts of meats, which are prepared on a grill in the back and served with salad and fresh vegetables. It’s an impossible amount of food, and I observed several locals who skipped the pasta course—this required a fair amount of discussion up front, of course—in order to save room for the truly memorable meats, which included a selection of pork, sausage, lamb and steak. Reserve a table at the window for fabulous views of Positano and the sea. La Tagliata offers a free shuttle service from most hotels along the coast, but if you’re going during lunchtime, you can also take the scenic hike back down to Positano. Open for lunch and dinner.

TIP: Unless you’re a fan of limoncello, don’t let the waiter talk you into having one; yes, the sweet liqueur is the typical conclusion to a meal on the Amalfi Coast, but after the amount of food you’ve just consumed, grappa is the way to go.

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Lo Scoglio da Tommaso

Though determined drivers can get to this longtime favorite via land, it’s much more glamorous to arrive by boat to this lovely family run restaurant. Seated on a long deck that stretches into the sea, diners enjoy fresh seafood accompanied by glasses of chilled local whites. The family has been delivering farm-to-table and sea-to-table food since it opened in 1958 and their regulars include celebrities, chefs and locals, who are all treated as longtime friends. The spaghetti with zucchini, a local specialty, is legendary here. Most fruits and vegetables served are grown in the family’s garden just up the hillside.

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Bar at Next 2, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Next 2

Recommends Antonio Sersale, the owner of the Sirenuse, in Positano: “Next 2 is a great restaurant with lovely cuisine. It’s owned by a charming woman named Tanina, who is also the chef. It’s always a fun scene.” Many of the ingredients are grown in the family’s nearby gardens and the cuisine is innovative takes on classic Campagnia cuisine with a focus on, naturally, ultra-fresh seafood. For an aperitif, guests can sample a large array of regional wines in the adjacent wine bar.

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