Da Tonino

If you want to escape the tourist crowds that dine in town at the easily reachable restaurants, head to Da Tonino, a local favorite that’s off the beaten path enough to guarantee that you’ll hear mostly Italian spoken in the dining room. It’s a 15-minute walk on the steep streets leading from the piazzetta, but the homemade pastas and fresh, no-frills seafood dishes, as well as a surprisingly complex wine list, are worth the climb. Da Tonino is also a good option for lunch if you’re en route to see the Villa Jovis or Arco Naturale, and it's also much more affordable than the glitzy restaurants on the island. Request a table on the alfresco patio.