Outdoor Lounge at Al Piccolo Bar, Capri, Italy - Courtesy of Antonio Manfredonio

Al Piccolo Bar

The oldest bar on Capri’s legendary piazzetta, the Piccolo is a favorite spot for an aperitif and people watching before and after dinner.

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Ambience - Anema e Core, Capri, Italy - Courtesy Anema e Core

Anema e Core

Capri’s most famous, buzzing bar still draws in crowds during the high season, who come for its strong cocktails, live music and, occasionally, dancing on the tables. Closed Monday; reservations on weekends are required.

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Aurora

The adored Capri restaurant Aurora has a small shop in Anacapri on the street leading from the Capri Palace to Villa San Michele where you can purchase the distinctive Italian table settings that so many diners have fallen in love with over the years. Handblown colorful glasses and graphic ceramic dishes in a range of colors can be shipped all over the world.

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Buca di Bacco

Named after Bacchus, the god of wine, this traditional restaurant, which is only open for dinner, is a favorite among locals and longtime visitors.

Buonocore

If Capri were a cartoon, you would float toward Buonocore, nose first, following the scent of homemade waffle cones. The gelato equivalent of Paris’s Berthillon, Buonocore is the only gelateria you need to know on the island. The lines are always long, but it’s more than worth the wait for the smoothest, richest flavors. One afternoon, deterred by a throng of Italian school kids in line in front of me, I bought a cone at another stand nearby. I regretted it for the rest of the afternoon, as nothing comes close to tasting the homemade concoctions at Buonocore. Best of all, it’s open until 11:30 P.M., in case you get an after-dinner craving.

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Bar at Da Gelsomina, Capri, Italy

Da Gelsomina

The view from this Anacapri restaurant extends all the way toward Ischia and makes this an excellent choice for a special night out. It’s also enough off-the-beaten-path that you won’t encounter the tourist throngs of Capri Town (though reservations during high season are a must). The family-owned Gelsomina also functions as a B&B, but most people come here for the homemade food, which is authentic and uncomplicated. Recommends Ori Kafri, the owner of acclaimed JK Place: “A great place for a local scene is Da Gelsomina, in Anacapri which has a nice terrace and views.”

Da Gioia

Tucked into the far end of the cove at Marina Piccolo, Da Gioia serves delicious Italian food on a wooden deck over the sea. You can arrive by boat or a short series of stairs and a beach crossing. It tends to attract more Italians and Spaniards than Americans, and it is a bit less polished than La Fontelina, but the food is just as good.

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Food at Da Giorgio, Capri, Italy

Da Giorgio

A favorite of J.K. Place owner Ori Kafri, Da Giorgio has a splendid terrace with views of town and the Bay of Naples, as well as a menu full of regional specialties such as grilled fish and homemade seafood pasta.

Dinning Area at Da Paolino, Capri, Italy

Da Paolino

With its romantic setting, an overgrown lemon grove, Da Paolino has been an island favorite for more than thirty years. The cuisine is classic Caprese and includes a variety of homemade pastas and fresh seafood. Plugged-in locals recommend leaving room for dessert: lemon profiteroles, certo.

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Food at Da Tonino, Capri, Italy

Da Tonino

If you want to escape the tourist crowds that dine in town at the easily reachable restaurants, head to Da Tonino, a local favorite that’s off the beaten path enough to guarantee that you’ll hear mostly Italian spoken in the dining room. It’s a 15-minute walk on the steep streets leading from the piazzetta, but the homemade pastas and fresh, no-frills seafood dishes, as well as a surprisingly complex wine list, are worth the climb. Da Tonino is also a good option for lunch if you’re en route to see the Villa Jovis or Arco Naturale, and it's also much more affordable than the glitzy restaurants on the island. Request a table on the alfresco patio.

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Balcony at Hotel Punta Tragara, Capri, Italy

Hotel Punta Tragara

At a Glance

Originally a private villa designed by Le Corbusier, this dreamy hotel has a breathtaking location overlooking the Faraglioni rock formations.

Indagare Loves

  • The dramatic cliffside location and the spectacular views of the Faraglioni sea stacks
  • The arbor-covered, romantic Monzù restaurant, which serves classic Capri and Neapolitan dishes
  • La Pergola bar, a perfect spot for sipping a sunset cocktail

Review

This luxurious hotel has an intriguing history—formerly a private villa designed by Le Corbusier and home to the American command during WWII (even hosting secret wartime meetings between Eisenhower and Churchill), Punta Tragara was purchased by Count Manfredi in 1968 and opened as a hotel in 1973. Still run by the Manfredi family, the hotel today carries on the tradition of elegance and hospitality.

The 44 lovely rooms are spacious, bright and stylish yet down to earth. Rooms are decorated using the colors of Capri—lemon yellows, Mediterranean blues, cliffside grays and whites—and contain sculpture and contemporary art as well as antiques and archaeological artifacts. The large marble bathrooms add to the luxe vibe and each room has a balcony or terrace.

Monzù restaurant offers Capri favorites and traditional Neapolitan dishes, which diners can enjoy along with the wonderful sea views on the panoramic veranda. The Unica Spa has four treatment rooms, each with its own outside relaxation area, and there are two pools on the property.

The view, however, is the true star of this hotel. A genuine feast for the eyes awaits guests, whether gazing upon the iconic Faraglioni rocks, the beautiful Marina Piccola or the spectacular sunsets.

Who Should Stay

Anyone who appreciates spectacular views will fall in love with Punta Tragara, but couples will especially enjoy the romantic environment.
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Dinning Area at Il Cucciolo, Capri, Italy

Il Cucciolo

Finding a low-key trattoria in Anacapri is trickier than in Capri, where places like Da Gemma, Aurora and Da Tonino keep visitors and locals well fed. This restaurant is not easy to find, but the cuisine is freshly prepared and delicious. There’s a free shuttle from Anacapri’s central Piazza Vittoria and reservations are essential.

Il Geranio

With one of the best views of Capri’s famous faraglioni rocks, Il Geranio delivers a spectacular setting and delicious Mediterranean food based on what is currently in season.

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Food at Il Riccio, Capri, Italy

Il Riccio

In a choice location near the Blue Grotto, this stunning terraced beach club, restaurant and bar is managed by the Capri Palace hotel. Diners sit at blue-colored tables in the breezy dining room, which has gorgeous sea views. The menu changes frequently and is created by the Capri Palace’s chef who also oversees two-Michelin-starred restaurant, L’Olivo. An Indagare member who recently returned from Capri raved about Il Riccio: “Lunch at the beach club of the Capri Palace was off the charts!”

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Food at JKitchen, Capri, Italy

JKitchen

Guests and plugged-in outsiders lucky enough to score a reservation have access to talented chef Flavio Astarita who prepares a different menu every night depending on what’s fresh and in season. Instead of the ever-buzzing town, the backdrop here is a candlelit wooden deck with views across the Marina Grande and toward the mainland—surely one of the most romantic dinner settings on the island. The food is simply prepared and delicious (think grilled scampi, fried calamari with lemon, homemade fusilli tossed with zucchini flowers and tender swordfish cooked with cherry tomatoes). A strong espresso concludes the meal, which is the kind of flavorful, uncomplicated affair synonymous with an enviable, breezy southern Italian lifestyle.

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Food at L’Olivo, Capri, Italy

L’Olivo

The two-Michelini-starred, fine-dining restaurant at Capri Palace Jumeirah is one of Capri’s most special dining experiences, with a beautiful setting, down-to-earth service and exquisite Mediterranean cuisine. Weather permitting, diners are seated on a large terrace looking beyond Anacapri town and toward the sea, though the candlelit dining room—done in a champagne-and-chocolate color scheme and furnished with antique mirrors and bookcases and chairs covered in Loro Piana fabrics—also makes for a romantic backdrop. Everything is beautifully presented, and the wine list is excellent. Leave some room for lineup of petits-fours and two steaming beignets (fried dough) that are delivered in a breadbasket wrapped in a brightly patterned napkin—a perfectly tasty and playful ending to a gourmet meal.

Aerial View - La Fontelina, Capri, Italy

La Fontelina

This seaside restaurant, at the bottom of a 980-foot cliff at the base of Punta Tragara, is popular with the yachting crowd, many of whom arrive on their tenders and spend time at the adjacent lido, one of the better beaches on the island (they are all small; Capri is not a destination you choose for sand expanses). The low-key terrace, with pastel tablecloths, wood chairs and a thatched roof, is as close as you’ll get to the fabled Faraglioni rocks that rise out of the water like ancient sea creatures. Open for lunch only; reservations are strongly recommended. Note: They do not have sunscreen, so if you have a reservation at the beach club after lunch, make sure to bring your own. Guests should also note that the restaurant can be difficult to reach by foot.

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Dinning Area at Le Grottelle, Capri, Italy

Le Grottelle

The terrace of Le Grottelle, suspended high above a gorgeous, sparkling bay near the Arco Naturale, is one of the most blissful settings on Capri. Diners are seated under yellow umbrellas, and the Caprese dishes (pasta, seafood), prepared by Mama Rosa, are flavorful, homemade and delicious. Don’t even bother with the menu; just ask for what’s fresh that day and return to gazing at the incredible view. My husband and I had a wonderful lunch at Le Grottelle, but the concierge at our hotel told us that the most romantic time to go is for dinner, especially on a warm summer night when the moon transforms the sea into silvery molasses. Le Grottelle is a twenty-to-thirty-minute walk from town, but you’ll be happy to work up an appetite for this totally authentic Capri must—the couple who dined next to us said that they had come back for lunch three times during their five-day visit—and be sure to save room for dessert, like the fluffy lemon cake.

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Lido del Faro

This seaside restaurant, next to the lighthouse (faro) at Punta Carena on the island’s southwest coast, is popular with the local crowd, as not too many tourists make it out to this far point on the island. The easiest way to access it is by boat. Open for lunch and dinner on the weekends and every evening in August.

Exterior View : Pulalli Wine Bar, Capri, Italy

Pulalli Wine Bar

The name of this restaurant and wine bar may sound like how you’ll sound after a few too many glasses of vino, but it was actually made up by the then-three-year-old son of owner Fabrizio Arbace when the place opened nine years ago. Located on the top floor of a building next door to Capri town’s fabled clock tower, Pulalli is a great spot for an aperitif (there’s a long list of wines to try by the glass) or for an early pasta dinner with kids. Closed Tuesday.

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