The oldest bar on Capri’s legendary piazzetta, the Piccolo is a favorite spot for an aperitif and people watching before and after dinner.

If Capri were a cartoon, you would float toward Buonocore, nose first, following the scent of homemade waffle cones. The gelato equivalent of Paris’s Berthillon, Buonocore is the only gelateria you need to know on the island. The lines are always long, but it’s more than worth the wait for the smoothest, richest flavors. One afternoon, deterred by a throng of Italian school kids in line in front of me, I bought a cone at another stand nearby. I regretted it for the rest of the afternoon, as nothing comes close to tasting the homemade concoctions at Buonocore. Best of all, it’s open until 11:30 P.M., in case you get an after-dinner craving.

A favorite of J.K. Place owner Ori Kafri, Da Giorgio has a splendid terrace with views of town and the Bay of Naples, as well as a menu full of regional specialties such as grilled fish and homemade seafood pasta.

With its romantic setting, an overgrown lemon grove, Da Paolino has been an island favorite for more than thirty years. The cuisine is classic Caprese and includes a variety of homemade pastas and fresh seafood. Plugged-in locals recommend leaving room for dessert: lemon profiteroles, certo.

Finding a low-key trattoria in Anacapri is trickier than in Capri, where places like Da Gemma, Aurora and Da Tonino keep visitors and locals well fed. This restaurant is not easy to find, but the cuisine is freshly prepared and delicious. There’s a free shuttle from Anacapri’s central Piazza Vittoria and reservations are essential.