Patrons of this Como classic can arrive via car or boat, but half of the experience is the water arrival in a private boat. Though the atmosphere is casual, the restaurant is extremely serious about food, as evidenced by chef Andrea Cremonesi’s liberal use of shaved fresh truffles. The fish on the menu is caught fresh each morning, the pasta is handmade, the presentations are exquisite and the flavors memorable. This is the perfect stop after a visit to nearby Villa Balbianello.

One of the favorite rituals of locals is lunch at Locanda dell’Isola, the only restaurant on the only island on the lake. It’s a tightly scripted experience, which is part of its charm: after you arrive by boat, you are led on a short tour of Comacina Island followed by a long, leisurely meal with a set multi-course menu that the owners have been serving since 1947. It features copious antipasto, prosciutto, grilled salmon trout from the lake, crispy roast chicken and a dessert of oranges with vanilla gelato coupled with café flambé (that is said to bestow the drinker with good luck). Each dish has a symbolic meaning, which is explained by the staff, along with the history of the island. Cash only.

The crowd at Il Gatto Nero is glamorous (George Clooney is a regular), the mood celebratory, the views sublime and the food quite good, with an emphasis on local seafood. The main dining room is cozy and candlelit, with walls of books and a quirky décor featuring lots of cat tchotkes, but the prime seating is on the terrace, which boasts breathtaking views of Como town and the lake. Note: Recent patrons argue the cuisine declined after the passing of the beloved longtime chef.