This classic can't be missed: its façade is covered in colorful ceramic tiles made in Caltagirone. It's mobbed during the day, so best come for a sweet breakfast of granita (served with a brioche) and cappuccino. It's situated on a lovely corner, so in the morning, it's fun to watch the locals shop and restaurant owners prepare for the days (deliveries are made pre-tourist arrival).

Indagare Tip: This is not on the menu but you can order the granita in "piccola" size, in case you can't stomach the idea of starting the day with a large shaved ice. The classic flavor for the a.m. granita is, of course, caffè. But you can also get two flavors and add the local almonds into the mix. And don't refuse the whipped cream that goes on top. It makes the entire thing come together.

This cheese and meat shop-cum-sidewalk snack bar is a must for its local scene and authentic flavors. In the impossibly crammed space next to the al fresco cheese counter and the small shop, the hostess sets up rudimentary tables for guests (you sit on turned-over crates). There’s no menu: you are simply asked if you prefer eat, cheese or vegetable antipasta (or a combination thereof), and then whatever is fresh and ready that day comes out on an enormous board, complemented with a bread and servings of a vino della casa.

Only visitors seem to sit down; the locals who come stand around the cheesemonger or meat counter, sampling Panini stuffed with fresh ricotta, slices of mortadella or salami, or whatever else the family who runs the place—with gusto—shoves in their hands. Next door is a vegetable stand, across the street a flower vendor and further down a throng of market shoppers, making you feel like you have stumbled onto a Sicilian movie set.

Look for a stretch of sidewalk that is lined with short trees in flowerboxes and you will have found Clandestino, a wonderful spot for an aperitivo. They are especially known for artisanal beers.

A dinner reservation on the terrace of this grande dame hotel is a much-coveted affair. Sitting proudly in the hillside of already lofty Taormina, the Timeo looks across terraced gardens to the sea. This is the kind of unapologetically old-school place where a team of waiters and sommeliers sweeps around your table, where meals take hours and menus fold out to the size of newspapers (female diners are given versions without the prices, certo).

But it's far from stuffy. The staff is warm and accommodating, chatting with diners and happily explaining the local dishes, all of which are incredible. Come hungry: this is definitely the place to order it all: antipasta, primi and secondi, followed by dessert if you still can. The wine list has lots of nearby winners; after all Mount Etna smolders in the distance (on some nights, you can actually see lava). It's by far the most expensive restaurant in Sicily, but a meal here is truly special and should not be missed.

This small restaurant is located a short walk from the entrance of the stunning nature Reserve Vendicari. When you drive in, you can’t miss the tables set in the lovely garden on your left. In typical Sicilian understatement, Il Baglietto looks touristy, and my husband and I would have never stopped there had an Italian friend not given us a rave review. Thanks to his suggestion, we had one of the best meals of our trip.

If it’s on the menu, order pasta con le sarde (Sicily's unofficial national dish) whose Sardine-fennel sauce was a revelation. Diners sit in a most serene garden setting, the massive trees and fields of Vendicari framing the property. It’s a spot not to be missed while visiting the reserve and during the summer months, reservations are a must.

Set in a small outdoor courtyard, this unassuming establishment remains relatively off-the-beaten-path of tourists. Known for its seafood, L'Arco dei Cappuccini serves an array of fresh crudos, tartares and carpaccios, as well as daily catch-by-the-kilogram (offered to diners table-side) and pastas galore. Try the linguine con bottarga (sea urchin), which comes with a heaping scoop of the fishy delicacy. Closed Wednesday.

This seaside seafood restaurant is a Marzamemi institution—and knows it, judging by the lofty (for Sicily) prices. But paying €18 for a plate of pasta is worth it when said plate is served on a table that’s facing the turquoise blue of the Ionian Sea. Diners sit on colorful painted chairs, shaded by a straw pergola and order the catch of the day.

All is prepared simply and without frills: tuna grilled with fennel seeds, lemon-marinated shrimp, pasta topped with mussels and the world’s most flavorful tomatoes and burratta. All is washed down with a crisp white and a strong espresso at the end of the meal. If you can’t find a spot on the sea-facing terrace, the tables in front of the restaurant, facing Marzamemi’s cute central piazza are also a fine place for a leisurely lunch. During the high season (June-August), reservations are a must.

La Pineta, in Marinella di Selinunte, a 10-minute walk from the temples, is located right on the beach and serves wonderful seafood. (Be aware it's at the end of a long and bumpy road.)

Modica’s most famous restaurant is touristy for sure (the menu is a massive book with dishes described in several different languages, plus photographs of everything). But the simple (read very rustic) Sicilian home cooking and affordable prices still draw locals who come for dinner presumably on the nights when mamma is not cooking. In the summer, ask to sit on the al fresco patio out front to watch the bustling street scene of Corso Umberto.  A few of the most famous dishes to try: arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with an incredible tomato-based sauce); cavatelli, a rustic pasta dish with broccoli; and lenticchia, a hearty stew made with lentils.

This low-key local bar sits on a smaller, but very scenic piazza, tucked away from the Duomo crowds. Order wine, beer or classic Italian cocktails like Aperol Spritz, or pay a few more Euros to get access to the apero buffet (served inside).

Dining on the terrace of the seaside Villa Sant'Andrea is a must during any Taormina stay. Framed by lush gardens and with glorious views of the sea, it's a great spot for lunch or dinner. Guests from the Timeo can make use of the Sant'Andrea's beach club, so come for lunch and settle into one of the beachside loungers for the afternoon. The menu is encompassing, trying to please all of the nationalities who are guests at this five-star, but there's always a selection of local, Sicilian specialties.