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Caffè Sicilia
Crocifisso da Baglieri
One of Noto's most beloved restaurants, Baglieri has a cool, modern dining room and a short menu that changes often. It's the best bet for lunch or dinner in Noto.
Fattoria delle Torri
You’d think a restaurant set in a restored Palazzo just off the main Corso Umberto drag would be easy to find, but in fact a recent trip required walking directions on Google Maps to save the day after numerous dead-end attempts down dark alleys. Once found, however, this is one of Modica’s most upscale restaurants.
The dining room is set under high stone arches and the presentation of the dishes is a bit more of a production than it needs to be. The upscale interpretation of classic Sicilan fare, however, is beautifully executed. All the pasta and several different types of bread are made in-house, and besides seafood (always excellent in this part of Sicily), the Fattoria menu has equally strong meat dishes, including, on a recent trip, lamb and rabbit . During the summertime, tables are set on a gorgeous al fresco courtyard, lined with lemon trees.
Grand Hotel Timeo
A dinner reservation on the terrace of this grande dame hotel is a much-coveted affair. Sitting proudly in the hillside of already lofty Taormina, the Timeo looks across terraced gardens to the sea. This is the kind of unapologetically old-school place where a team of waiters and sommeliers sweeps around your table, where meals take hours and menus fold out to the size of newspapers (female diners are given versions without the prices, certo).
But it's far from stuffy. The staff is warm and accommodating, chatting with diners and happily explaining the local dishes, all of which are incredible. Come hungry: this is definitely the place to order it all: antipasta, primi and secondi, followed by dessert if you still can. The wine list has lots of nearby winners; after all Mount Etna smolders in the distance (on some nights, you can actually see lava). It's by far the most expensive restaurant in Sicily, but a meal here is truly special and should not be missed.
Il Baglietto
This small restaurant is located a short walk from the entrance of the stunning nature Reserve Vendicari. When you drive in, you can’t miss the tables set in the lovely garden on your left. In typical Sicilian understatement, Il Baglietto looks touristy, and my husband and I would have never stopped there had an Italian friend not given us a rave review. Thanks to his suggestion, we had one of the best meals of our trip.
If it’s on the menu, order pasta con le sarde (Sicily's unofficial national dish) whose Sardine-fennel sauce was a revelation. Diners sit in a most serene garden setting, the massive trees and fields of Vendicari framing the property. It’s a spot not to be missed while visiting the reserve and during the summer months, reservations are a must.
La Capinera
La Cialoma
This seaside seafood restaurant is a Marzamemi institution—and knows it, judging by the lofty (for Sicily) prices. But paying €18 for a plate of pasta is worth it when said plate is served on a table that’s facing the turquoise blue of the Ionian Sea. Diners sit on colorful painted chairs, shaded by a straw pergola and order the catch of the day.
All is prepared simply and without frills: tuna grilled with fennel seeds, lemon-marinated shrimp, pasta topped with mussels and the world’s most flavorful tomatoes and burratta. All is washed down with a crisp white and a strong espresso at the end of the meal. If you can’t find a spot on the sea-facing terrace, the tables in front of the restaurant, facing Marzamemi’s cute central piazza are also a fine place for a leisurely lunch. During the high season (June-August), reservations are a must.
Manna Noto
Osteria Rosso DiVino
Ottava Nota
Run by a chef who spent time in Spain before returning to his native Sicily, Palermo's Ottava Nota is a wonderful restaurant for dinner. Its modern dining room and elevated cuisine set it apart from the more traditional eateries, but the relaxed atmosphere created by a team of young, motivated waiters and sommeliers, make you feel right at home. The menu is focused and elegant, innovating classic Italian/Sicilian cuisine with touches that sound like they won't work (mango-infused risotto with tuna Carpaccio) but that magically come together for a glorious meal. On the weekends, reservations are a must.
Principe Cerami at San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Resort
Principe di Belludia
Ristorante da Vittorio
Ristorante La Madia
Terra Mia Ristorante di Campagna
Villa Athena Restaurant
The restaurant terrace of the Villa Athena hotel faces Agrigento's breathtaking Valley of Temples, with a dead-on view of the massive Concordia Temple. It's one of southern Sicily's most coveted lunch and dinner reservations (dinner is best for guests staying at the Villa, since there are no other high-end hotels in the area). The menu is a mix of Sicilian, Italian and international fare.
Zia Pina
Located in the Vucciria neighborhood (which was so heavily damaged during World War II that its streets still look a bit ravaged), this is a good place to break for lunch. If you don't speak Italian, it can be a bit intimidating, since it's a local favorite and usually bustling with people. Also, there is no menu, just a quickly dashed-off description of what's fresh today. But if you manage to snag one of the rickety, outdoor tables and order whatever is recommended that day, you are rewarded with flavorful, traditional cooking.
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