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Venice Dining
“Venice is a fish,” writes Italian poet Tiziano Scarpa in one of the best literary novellas about the city—and he’s right. When seen from afar, the map resembles an open-mouthed fish, its head San Polo, its lower jaw the Dorsoduro, taking a big bite out of chubby San Marco. Planning one’s own meals in Venice is tricky. While one can eat quite well in the more remote sesiteri (neighborhoods) of this water-edged city, it’s also remarkably easy to end up with a disappointing meal in the more touristy spots, unlike in, say, Rome or Vienna, where even the simplest places often deliver.
Carefully mapping out ones meals around sight-seeing is also important since time functions very differently in Venice—everything takes longer by water than on a paved road. Who has not had the unfortunate experience of wandering around mobbed San Marco, desperately looking for a lunch spot that doesn’t look overly touristy with a throng of hungry—read unhappy—family members in tow? It is essential to come armed with a host of restaurant recommendations for each sestieri you’ll be touring. Buon appetito!
SAN MARCO
Nearby sights: San Marco Square, Bell Tower, Doge’s Palace, La Fenice, Biblioteca Marciana, Correr Museum- For an al fresco lunch: Acqua Pazza
- For an intimate seafood lunch: Il Ridotto
- For lunch/dinner near San Marco: Osteria Enoteca San Marco or Trattoria Do Forni
- For an afternoon coffee: Caffe Florian
- For a sweet snack: Colussi
- For a classic cocktail: Harry’s Bar
- For a classic Venetian setting: Il Quadri
- For a local dinner: Alle Testiere
DORSODURO
Nearby sights: Gallerie dell’Accademia, Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Punta della Dogana, Fondazione Vedova, Ca’Rezzonico, Ca’Foscari, Campo San Barnaba- For a big night out on the laguna: Lineadombra
- For lunch on the laguna: Restaurant La Calcina
- For a local lunch or dinner: Pesador Riviera
- For a sweet snack: Gelateria Nico
- For aperitifs: Cantinone Gia Schiava
SAN POLO/SANTA CROCE
Nearby sights: Santa Maria dei Frari, Scuola di San Rocco, Campo San Polo, Rialto Market- For a local lunch or dinner: Antiche Carampane
- For an al fresco lunch: Birraria La Corte
- For an al fresco lunch or aperitifs: Bancogiro
- For great pizza: Il Refolo
- For a sweet treat: Gelateria Alaska
- For aperitifs and/or dinner: Naranzaria
CASTELLO
Nearby sights: The sites of the Biennale de Venise- For an al fresco lunch: Corte Sconta
- For a lazy lunch or dinner: Al Covo or Alle Testiere
WORTH A WATER TAXI RIDE
- Big Night Out: Cip’s Club, on the Giudecca
- Big Night Out: Antico Martini, near La Fenice Opera House
- Local Scene: Antiche Carampane, in San Polo
- Local Scene: Naranzaria, at the Rialto Bridge
- Local Scene: Alle Testiere, in Castello (but within walking distance to San Marco square)
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