G&V's facade says it all. An ultramodern sandstone monolith with geometric contours, it would be conspicuous almost anywhere. But on Edinburgh's medieval monument-studded Royal Mile, the impact of the architectural fashion statement is considerably heightened. Indeed one might say that the hotel, which opened in 2009, is as irreverent as the Balmoral is nostalgic. If the hotel's valet staff weren't clad in matching kilts (featuring the Italian label’s signature zigzags), Scotland would be virtually invisible here, except from its fourth and fifth-floor windows, which overlook St. Giles' crown steeple to stunning effect.

The property is a novelty even by Milan's standards. So many Italian fashion hotels are stark, spare and serious, but monochrome was never part of Rosita Missoni's vocabulary, and her debut hotel is anything but austere. Its glossy interiors are characterized by an exuberant color scheme and an affinity for staccato patterns and tech-driven design flourishes. A pervasive sense of fun shows up in all the details, from quirky china patterns to vibrantly wallpapered elevators (going upstairs for the first time feels a bit like taking a ride in a giant kaleidoscope).

With its neon habit and its kinetic energy, the hotel does seem a bit displaced in misty, collegiate Edinburgh, and it's difficult not to wonder if the Missoni clan might have paired its inaugural property with a city that were (even vaguely) sartorially inclined. However, it's more difficult still, especially after a sleepless transatlantic flight, to argue with an invigorating rain shower, a luxurious Missoni bathrobe and a perfect cup of espresso (or three) brewed on command by one's own dedicated Nespresso machine. Aesthetic controversies aside, it is an eminently comfortable and pleasant place to be.

With 129 rooms and 7 suites, the G&V is marginally smaller than the Balmoral, but the absence of a soaring lobby and sprawling public areas makes it feel much more intimate. Facilities consist of a cheerful lobby bar, a popular Italian restaurant, a very basic fitness suite and a tiny but adorable spa with only two treatment rooms but plenty of personality.

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Lovely vistas of Edinburgh Castle are among the Balmoral's many assets, though guests requesting castle-facing rooms should also be sure to admire the views of their hotel from the castle's upper battery. A palatial structure that is easily identifiable from the summit of Castle Rock, the Balmoral is the city's unmistakable center of gravity. In Gaelic, Balmoral means "majestic dwelling," and indeed the hotel, with its ornate Victorian facade and venerable clock tower, is a landmark in its own right, rivaling even the castle itself.

The North British Railway Company built the hotel at the turn of the 20th century to serve passengers arriving Edinburgh's Waverley Station (the station is still adjacent to the Balmoral though no longer linked by a dedicated passageway). Despite a series of renovations and the introduction of innumerable modern comforts, the hotel has retained much of its character. Its principal hallways are still wide enough for two amply bustled ladies to pass each other walking in opposite directions, and in keeping with a tradition that dates back to Britain's railroad heyday, its monumental clock is still set three minutes fast in order to help prevent passengers from missing their trains. The only day of the year that the clock runs on time is Hogmanay (Scottish New Year's Eve).

In 1988 the hotel closed for a comprehensive restoration and subsequently became the inaugural property in Sir Rocco Forte's collection. A 2004 makeover by Olga Polizzi saw its 168 rooms and 20 suites clad in gentle lavenders and greens, a palette purportedly inspired by the heathers and mosses of the Scottish countryside. The rooms are generally tasteful and very comfortable if slightly anticlimactic as a corollary to the building's dramatic exterior.

At least part of the Balmoral's appeal lies in its full-service ease, and the amenities do not disappoint. Number One, which is the most formal of the hotel's three eateries, has maintained its Michelin star for more than a decade. Afternoon tea in the lavishly chandeliered Palm Court is attended by a harpist and a flurry of fluted Bollinger champagne. Exercise fiends will be pleased with the well-provisioned gym, and those craving serenity will find an unexpected urban sanctuary by the hotel's lovely indoor pool. It seems no great wonder that this is where J.K. Rowling famously holed up to complete the seventh and final book of the Harry Potter series.

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