El Paraguas

Elegant and popular, El Paraguas is the place to go for a big night out – but you need to be sure to get a reservation first, not an easy task, and to arrive properly attired. The handsome dining room looks like it was set up inside an upscale century-old Madrid apartment, with separate dining areas featuring ornate wooden molding on the walls and ceiling, white tablecloths and richly upholstered chairs. Attentive service and an expansive wine list drawing from the best vineyards in Iberia complement the formal ambience.

Spain’s northern coastal province of Asturias inspires the menu, with dishes like hake roasted in cider with apple compote or black rice with scallops and cockles, but the exuberant and youthful chef also draws on a broad swath of Spanish and European influences. Other memorable, and less Asturian, dishes include Cantabrian anchovies with avocado and beef tenderloin with black truffle. For dessert try the Turkish fig mousse or the thin apple tart with white chocolate ice cream.