Editors' Picks

Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine

Monastic, romantic, gastronomic retreat

N 122 Km 332, Sardon de Duero 47340

34-983-680-368

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At a Glance

Housed in a renovated 12th-century Romanesque abbey, LeDomaine is ideal for travelers looking for a gastronomic and wine experience with a wellness focus.

Indagare Loves

  • The hotel’s 900-year-old history and architecture that incorporates aspects from the Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque periods
  • The 10,000-square-foot, Asian-inspired spa
  • The remote setting
  • Review

    Located 110 miles northwest of Madrid, Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is set in Sardón de Duero, a remote region known for its single-terroir wine estates and close proximity to the historic city of Valladolid. With a medieval air, the estate welcomes guests with its long, winding driveway, grand entrance and high-ceilinged corridors.

    Opened in 2012, LeDomaine occupies a historic medieval abbey that has been transformed into a romantic retreat with immaculately manicured grounds. Swiss architect Marco Serra helmed the property’s redesign, earning it the European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage the following year. It’s located alongside the Duero River on a 1,730-acre estate—700 acres of which are dedicated to the Abadía Retuerta vineyard, where the hotel sources its wines. With just 30 rooms and a staff of well over 100 (plus Spain’s first full butler service), Le Domaine delivers specialized service of the highest order.

    Most of its rooms are located in the main building and feature a neutral color palette, stone walls, Italian oak ceiling beams and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the vineyards. The beds are grand and plush, while the bathrooms are centered around the deep soaking tubs from which you can enjoy views of the vineyard. For a more private experience, guests can opt for one of the eight rooms in the Old Stables. Check-in at LeDomaine is completed in-room and followed by a private tour of the abbey, the 11th-century chapel and the property’s collection of medieval murals and sculptures.

    To fully luxuriate in LeDomaine’s relaxing atmosphere, guests can spend the day at Santuario Wellness & Spa, which occupies a 900-year-old former stable. The Asian-inspired space features soothing light stone and oak and customized treatments including La Sélection du Sommelier, an experience guided by a Spa Sommelier who uses Chinese medicine during a customized wine tasting experience. There is also a gym, salt-water pool, hammam and yoga studio.

    The focus on wellness carries over to the culinary program, which spotlights healthy gourmet fare. Chef Marc Segarra, who has worked at other beloved Spanish establishments like Mugaritz and the popular (but sadly, now closed) Restaurante Villa Magna, oversees the kitchens, and cooks with seasonal ingredients produced in nearby regions.

    The Michelin-starred Refectorio, located in the former refectory, serves dishes such as white asparagus with mustard cream and roasted lamb with garlic purée and ash. Vinoteca is the more relaxed and contemporary option, with a lighter menu of savory Spanish tapas (think Ibérico ham and cured sea bass seasoned with soy, lemon and jalapeño). In the summer, guests can have breakfast and lunch in Jardin del Claustro, a peaceful open-air garden that is shaded by 100-year-old cypress trees. At night, the garden transforms into a romantic, candlelit oasis for cocktails and dinner.

    LeDomaine offers a host of activities ranging from horseback riding, biking and falconry to helicopter tours and stargazing with a high-powered telescope. The hotel is located in Madrid’s second most important wine region behind Rioja, with many wineries to visit nearby. Private picnics can be arranged at sites along the bike trails, and guests can tour the Abadía Retuerta estate and learn about local wine production techniques before indulging in a tasting. Don’t miss the winery’s 2012 Selección Especial Sardón de Duero, which was recognized on the Top 100 Wines list by Wine Spectator.

    Who Should Stay

    Couples who enjoy traveling off-the-beaten-path will appreciate this romantic, spa-centric retreat. LeDomaine is not ideal for families with young children.

    Getting There

    The most common way to get to LeDomaine is to drive the almost two hours from Madrid, though you can also take a 56-minute high-speed train (AVE) from Madrid to Valladolid and then a 25-minute drive. The nearest airports are Villanubla/Valladolid (25 miles) and Madrid-Barajas/Madrid (125 miles). There is a helipad onsite at LeDomaine for clients who want to take the fastest route from Madrid.

    Need To Know

    • The hotel is seasonal and closes for a period of time during the winter.
    • A two- or three-night stay at LeDomaine should be combined with a visit to Madrid, San Sebastian or Rioja.

    Written by Laura Fishman

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