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Develi Kebap House
A bit off the beaten track (and rather heavy on the kitsch decor), the Develi Kebab House is considered one of the top kebab houses in Istanbul. Try the cig kofte, Turkey’s answer to steak tartare (lamb kneaded with spice and herbs) and the fistikli kebab (kebab with pistachios).
Fazil Bey
Feriye Lokantasi
There is a touristy quality to this place that may remind you of classics like the 21 Club in New York and Tour d’Argent in Paris, but it delivers an incredible location right on the edge of the Bosphorus with the twinkling bridge lights and lapping water. Besides even Turkish business men come here to close deals, and Stamboulis to celebrate special occasions because the location is so special and the food predictably good.
Hamdi
No trip to Istanbul is complete without a kebap (Turkish for “kebab”) lunch. Located in the Old City on a rooftop on the waterfront by Galata bridge, just steps away from the Egyptian Spice Market, Hamdi offers sweeping views and a casual, bustling, neighborhood atmosphere. Start with mezze, then order a variety of grilled kebaps; I particularly enjoyed the pistachio (a spicy meatball with lamb, beef and pistachios) and the lamb. They are served with fresh pitas, wraps, grilled hot peppers, tomatoes, cous cous and chopped onions, so that you can build your own, fajita style. Locals swear the baklava is the best in town. (Note: Make sure you go to Hamdi Restaurant, not Hamdi Kofte, which is three doors down.)
Karaköy Gulluoglu
Karaköy Lokantasi
This family-run eatery by the wharfs serves Ottoman classics as well as an excellent assortment of meze. Its relaxed, brasserie-esque atmosphere is popular with local business people who work in the area, but given that it sits across the street from the sea terminal, the cruise crowds sometimes find their way in as well. Lunch is best as the area is a bit deserted at night (although dinner here is excellent). Reservations are recommended.
Kofteci Huseyin
Pandeli
Any A-lister who goes to Istanbul makes sure to have a meal at Pandeli, a classic Turkish restaurant near the entrance to the Spice Market; it serves mezes and traditional meat and fish dishes. While many people complain that the restaurant is overpriced and lives on its past reputation, it’s still a lovely place with plenty of atmosphere. Ask for a table in the main room, lined in ancient turquoise tiles.
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi
If you’re looking to get down and dirty with the locals, try Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, an 80-year-old joint famous for its kofte, zesty grilled meatballs indicative of Turkish “fast food.” Wash your meal down with ayran, a traditional yogurt beverage that’s served alongside.
Tugra
Of the many restaurants of the Çiragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, Tugra is considered the best. The menu is classic Turkish-Ottoman cuisine, and its dishes are among the finest in the city. Even if you’re not staying here, book a table (with a view of the river) for a special evening out.
Ulus 29
One of the favorite restaurants of stylish Stamboulis, and a place that they love to bring visiting guests to wow them, is Ulus 29. Set on the hills overlooking the Bosphorus and the city, the club has knock-out views from just about every table. The owner Metin Fadillioğlu asked his wife to decorate the restaurant, and she has brought a sexy Ottoman feeling with touches from India and Morocco. In the summer, the best tables are on the terrace but in winter, floor-to-ceiling windows that extend along the length of the dining room preserve the feeling of being on the edge of the cliff.
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